Building A Lean To Roof Shed | Double Doors | Part 3

Thinking about building your own lean to roof shed with double doors? Check out this fun DIY project where I added a lean with double doors for wide storage space!

This week, I am yet again continuing on with my lean to build. This week I am going to be tackling the roof, which means I will be applying the drip edge and the shingles and I will also be building and installing the shed double doors. Here are links in case you missed the first and second portions of this build.

Installing the Drip Edge:

The first thing that I did this week, to prepare for putting on the roof, was install a metal drip edge along the front fascia. This is a 1-1/2″ X  1-1/2″ drip edge that I used roofing nails to attach and tin snips to cut to length. This edge will direct water off of the front fascia.Next, I unrolled some roofing paper and cut it to length using a box blade. Note: Cut it a little longer than you need because you will trim it up flush later.
Tack this into place on the roof, putting a nail about every 12″. Now they do make special plastic headed nails for this application, but the big box store was only selling them in a larger quantity and I didn’t need that many so I am just using roofing nails here instead.

Once the first row is applied, come back with a second row and repeat the steps. You want at least 6″ of overlap on your rows.

Once your entire roof is covered with roofing paper, come back with a box blade and trim the ends so they are flush with the rake fascias. Now you can come back with another drip edge for both of the side pieces. Again attaching it with roofing nails and using tin snips to cut it to length.

Attaching Roof Shingles:

It took me one bundle of shingles to do my entire roof. The first thing I did was start off by making my starter strips. These are the strips that are going to be laid down, underneath the first row of shingles. To make them, I used a box blade to cut along the tar strip and remove the three shingles. I did this three times to create all of my starter strips. Also, I took one of them and cut off 6″ so that it will be staggered from the first row of shingles.I took the one that I cut 6″ off and used that as my very first starter strip. I lined it up with my edges then nailed it down. Now, I made my starter strips flush with my drip edges however, they actually need to be overhanging by 3/8″. Once you have the starter strip in place, then use four nails, right below the tar strip to attach it to the roof. After the first starter strip is in place, grab the next starter strip that is a full length, butt it up to the end and repeat the process. For the little bit of room that is left over, you can use a whole starter strip or you can cut it down to size, but make sure it still has an overhang of 3/8″ off the side of the roof as well as the front.Now you can start attaching the actual shingles. Start off with a full strip of shingles. Make sure that this has an overhang of 3/8″ and tack it down using 4 nails per strip. You need to be placing the nails right above the shingle slit and right below the tar strip. Note: Do your best to get this first row straight so that it will make lining up the rest of the rows easier.  Before you start on the second row you need to cut off 6″ so that the shingles will be staggered and not completely in line with one another. This is so water won’t get underneath the shingles. To do this, flip the shingle strip over and cut off 6″ using a box blade. Then line it up with the first row of shingles.

When you are lining these up, you need to be placing the bottom of the shingles right on top of the previous row’s shingles slit. Also it just worked out that the 6″ that I cut off in the beginning, fit perfectly on the end, to make a complete row. So don’t throw away your scraps until the very end.

A few things to note. You need to be making sure that as you are laying each row down, you are keeping them in line. You can do this by making marks on both sides of your roof and using a chalk line to make a straight line, or you can do it by eye. Or, the way that I did it, the roofing paper comes with pre-made lines on it and I used those to make sure that my lines were straight. However, for that to be accurate, you have to make sure that you are attaching your roofing paper square.

Again, go through and just continue attaching it with four nails per set, alternating each row with a full set of shingles, then a set cutting 6″ off, then a full set of shingles, then cutting 6 ” off….etc.

Once you get to the very back where the shingles will be overlapping more than they should, I took a measurement from the very back wall, down to the previous row’s slit and cut off that amount from the last row of shingles, so in my case, it was 2″. I took my last row of shingles, cutting off 2″ off the back so that whenever I set them into place they were now properly in line.

I was planning on putting flashing underneath the back walls flashing, however there wasn’t enough room. So what I did instead, was shimmy the last row of shingles underneath this Z-Flashing on my back wall.To cover up the last row’s tar strip, I ended up grabbing the shingles I cut off to make the starter strips and nailed them in place to create the absolute back row of shingles. These worked out perfect as far as spacing for me.

I came back with some roofing mastic and apply a very heavy line along the back seam to seal up that joint as much as possible. What you don’t want is water getting back behind the lean to and rotting out that wall. The last thing I did was come back through with a box blade and trim up the side of the lean to roof, so that all of the shingles were overhanging by 3/8″. I used a scrap shingle to come back and act as sandpaper to just kind of smooth out the rough edges.

Making Double Doors for a Shed:

The first thing that I did was grab my circular saw and a 1/2″ sheet of OSB, then cut it down to size. Now, I will be selling a set of plans for this Lean To but I’m afraid I won’t have them ready until next week so be looking for them if you are interested.

I grabbed some 2″ X 4″s and also cut them to length.

I set the 2″ X 4″s down and attached the OSB on top of them. First attaching the two lengths of 2″ X 4″, then coming back with a top and bottom piece and shimmying them into place using screws to attach them.

After I got the first door complete, I repeated the steps to make the second.

Then I used my circular saw once again to cut down a sheet of T1-11 siding to create the front skin of the door. Note: I cut the skins of these where one has an overhanging and the other is off-set. I did this so that whenever the doors are shut, it’s just a little more weather tight. Whenever I saw that they were going to line up good, I went through with some screws and attached them to the front of the 2″ X 4″s. Note: I actually meant to add insulation but I just got carried away building and building and building, that I completely forgot. However, adding insulation to these doors would probably be a great idea if you are trying to reduce noise. Then I came through with some 1″ X 4″s as the trim pieces. Now the pattern for the trim is a personal preference so just go with whatever look you prefer. 

Installing the Shed Double Doors:     

Before you move your doors into place, grab a 1/4″ piece of scrap and set it on the floor of the door opening, to set the doors onto.

These doors are very heavy. However, I did manage to move them into place and work them into the door jam. I played with the placement a little bit, trying to make sure the reveal was roughly a 1/4″ all the way around. Once you work the doors into place, then you can grab the door hardware and attach the doors. Make sure that the bolt on the hinge is in line with the reveal, so that the doors don’t bind. I am using 6″ gate hinges on my doors. And instead of using the hardware that came with the hinges, I have created using used 3″ screws.

For the inside of the non-operative door, I attached a lock that will go up into the door jam and keep this door inoperable whenever I don’t need it. Then I also attached a regular gate latch to the outside.

And I think that about wraps it up for this week. It was my husband’s birthday this week and he wants to go camping, so I don’t have any more time to spend on this, for this week. So stay tuned till next time. I still need to give it a coat of paint and do a few other small things to finish.If you liked this project and want to stay up to date with what I’m building, then be sure to sign up for my email newsletter and you’ll get an email when I post something new. See you soon!

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