Let’s Build a Deck!

Materials I Used to Build a Deck

• Wood
• Nails
• Saw
• String Line
• Nailer
• Wood Tape
• Pro-wood Lumber

How I Chose Materials for the Deck

I’ve personally chosen pro-wood for all of my pressure treated. Needs. They not only have super high standards, but they are also used in the latest technology called MCA where the C stands for copper. I love this because that means that it’s not harmful to plants, people or pets. But it is harmful to microbials that cause rot, or fungi. The treated lumber does come in levels of treatment so choosing lumber can get tricky, but pro-wood has black end tabs that make it easy. Whether you need light duty, ground contact, or something else.

Step 1: Preparing the Deck Posts

Lets start off with showing you the before shot. Everything here was in pretty decent shape other than the staircase but I’ll get into that later so all I did was remove the railing and refinish what was there that I could start building onto it. The framework for any deck is comprised of four main components: the posts, the beams, the joist, and the deck board. We start with setting the posts. Different areas will have different depth requirements for how deep you have to dig your hole so be sure to check with your code before getting started.

Next I put on a post saver sleeve. I do not put a post in the ground without one of these guys. What you need in order to create rot on a post is moisture and air, and where the post is most susceptible is about two inches above ground level. The line here indicates this goes two inches above where the ground level is and this will protect this zone that I most susceptible to rot.

The inside of it is lined with a tar like feature so that it creates a water and air tight seal to prevent oxygen from having access to the post. The sleeve takes heat to shrink it perfectly to size. I used my propane torch while somebody else turns it. It only takes a few seconds, then I cool it with a roller dipped in water.

Step 2: Pouring Concrete to Secure the Posts

If you have a large job like this one I personally think its worth it to rent mixer so that you can do three bags at a time. Remember to slope the concrete away. You don’t want to create an area that more water can pool.

Let me give you guys a tip on using a string line to set post. A lot of times when you see people pull a string line they pull it and then they try to set the post up right next to the it, the problem is if you end up bumming it too much even sightly with one post you’re gonna knock the string out of alignment. What I recommend instead is moving the string line away from it, in this case its going to be 18 inches so that whenever you set the post you can then pull your tape measure set the tape and hit that mark.

Alright so that is all of the posts set, lets move on to cutting them to height so that we can set the beams.

Step 3: Cutting the Posts to Height

So this line comes from using the laser level on all of the posts. Once you get the face mark now you can translate that around using the speed squarer. My favorite speed squarer to have on site is this crescent one that goes not only from a 6 inch but has a very quick flappable ruler that goes to a 12 in extension.

For all of the framing I’m using pro woods pressure treated wood and more specially for the post I’m using their label that says “for in the ground”. I’ll tell you more about their laboring press later. Jacob is now going through and marking off all of the shoulder locations. These headers are going to be attached to an actual shoulder so that they’re resting on a notch out on these beams so he’s just using a speed square to mark the depth.

The thing with making these shoulders is that the circular saw is not going to have enough throw in it to do it all in one. You can use the circular saw and set the depth in order to make this face cut to where it doesn’t go past your shoulder, in our case it can be all full depth without going past it but then make all of the cuts around here and as jake is going through doing that, I’ll come back and finish it with the saw. That wraps up cutting in all of the shoulders. The next thing is to cut all the beams to length to set on the shoulders.

Step 4: Setting the Beams

These are already crowned you can go through and crown your board and then whenever you find where the curve is you put an arrow on it so whenever you set these in pkae you can make sure it’s facing up. This one is gonna go halfway on this post. I’m going to come back with screws but for now I’m just gonna pop in a nail.

For the beams I’m using adoubled up 2 by 12. You want thse boards to be as untied as possible for strength so that means sucking them together. I first used three inch spacks power lags to pull the cup out then I came back with a framing nailer to nail it all throughout. This was my first job using the Senco framing nailer and I was very impressed with how rapidly it fired off.

At the end of setting al the beams in place it looks a little something like this.

Step 5: Mounting the Joists

The next step is to set the joist. Often you see joist go in hangers and are mounted on the face of the beam, but in this case they will be mounted to the top which first means I need to go through and flatten the top of the beam. A chalk line comes in handy to give a visual on the high points. Next I used an electric planer to flatten the top. Since the job site was sloped the lowest beam was pretty easy, the middle section as a shoulder workout, but the far beam was way too above my head.

Tip: if you don’t have  planer than another option would be to use a fence or a circular saw to make the top perfectly flat

Step 6: Setting the Joists

Lets start with the third major framing component: setting the joist. At the very beginning I ended up demoing the rim joist that use to be here so that we could have access to the joist from the existing deck and sister on these boards to them instead of going with joist hangers on the rim joists. By doing it this way, we’re not gonna have to cut to height each board, we’re just let it run wild into there, but we do have to notch it to get a 2 by 10 made up to this 2 by 8. On the opposite side, Jacob just set it right on top of it and this should come out level.

Whenever you’re deciding how many joist you want you can do either 24 inch centers, 16 inch centers, and you can play with doing 2 by 8s or 2 by 10s. actually with using 2 by 8s and 2 by 10s I could’ve gone to 24 inch centers but I made a decision to go with 16 in order to not make it so spongy feeling. The cost is very little difference so I would recommend sticking with 16s.

The complication here is making sure what we’re doing is going on square to the other surface, so we’re actually going to hop to the last one so that we can then pull diagonals and make sure the structure we are putting in is square. So out at the beams, I’m gonna have to toenail in the joist.

Tip: take off the tip of your nail gun This is really good whenever you’re in bump mode or nailing on flat but if you’re gonna be toe nailing and you’re going to take this off, they give you spikes in order to go in at an angle without it moving around on you.

The two measurements that I’m really paying attention to here in that these tails are the exact length apart and then that these are on 16 in center.

Step 7: Day two! Finishing Setting the Joist by Spacing them Evenly

So whenever setting joist, at the very last step you should attached a rim joist that connects the tails of each one. Its important to get the overhang of each joist as exact with each other as possible. So whenever measuring these 16 on center you never wanna go from the top because they’re not secured there, so you want to go from the bottom and then what I love about this tape is it has the numbers on both sides that makes measuring from the bottom very simple.

Step 8: Taping the Joist

Before doing anything else I want to do the joist taping which will drastically prolong the life of the boards. The tricky thing about my particular situation is the ground is so uneven I would have to move the ladder five or six times per joist, to prevent that I ended up doing some sort of leap frog activity where I used two 2 by 8s as seats and then just alternated them a little bit as a I worked my way back with four or five pieces of tape at a time. I’d progress the first two feet, move my board back then move my board back and progress the next two feet until I got to the end.

Now on this joist tape you do want to wrap it around the end and cover up the end grain which is where the wood actually absorbs the moisture.

Step 9: Completing the Deck Frame by Adding a Rim Joist

As Cindy and I were tackling the joist taping, Jacob was finishing off the last of the framing members for the pool. This is the only portion of the deck that includes joist hangers. For this we are using a Senco Nailer made specifically for joist hanging.

The last thing we do to conclude framing is add on the rim joist. This it the board that will tie all the tails of the joist together. Another important thing it does it plumb the joist. With the joist you always start with the board on one end and progress to the other end of the joist one at a time. As you go one person should be making sure that the top of the rim joist is not only flush to the top of the joist but that the joist is also at a ninety so that it can be nailed at the top and the bottom. It’s easiest with two people on this job.

I check with a speed squarer to ensure it is flush and will push or pull it if it isn’t. If the joist is twisted then I use a crescent hammer with a spur on it to grab the joist and use leverage to twist it straight while tell Jacob “top” so he knows he can stick it.

Deck Framing Completed!

And that is going to wrap up the first video of the deck series. I really hope you enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed building it. But stayed tuned because I have plenty more deck to build and I’ll be bringing you along on the entire journey. In the mean time, feel free to check out my website for tons of project plans and templates. Until next time!

Who doesn’t like sitting outside with a good fall breeze and some crisp air? It’s finally time to start getting ready for fall, what better way than building a good fire pit. Grab a set of plans and follow along with this video so I can show you how I made mine.

Let’s Build a Fire Pit

DIY Fire Table Plans

$9.99

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I’ve created a set of plans to make building this fire pit super simple and easy to follow.

Materials I Used for this Build

• Wood
• Wood Glue
• Saw
• Nails
• Brad Nailer
• Wood Finish
• Casters
• Fire Pit Plans

Step 1: Building the Fire Pit Frame and Assembling

The first thing I’m going to do is build a frame from 2x4s. This will be a big box to hide the propane tank needed to feed the fire. I intentionally bought a tank that can safely be laid down on it’s side so I could keep my table lower to the ground. By the way, if you want a cut list and dimensions of this table, I have a set of plans for it over on my website. If this table is too big for you, I also have a smaller version available

After using the miter saw to cut down a few 2x4s, I assembled them. I first lay out all my parts to do a dry fit. This way I can make sure it all looks right before sticking things together. Here I’m using exterior rated wood glue and a few screws on each joint. This is designed so that the top boards overlap the joints of the bottom boards. This will create strength but it also makes it quick to put together.

Step 2: Creating the Boxes Body

Next will be to sheath it, to put plywood around the frame to create the box’s body. Since this will be outside, I’m using an exterior plywood that is treated. I also painted the outside faces which you’ll see I’m making sure to attaching pointing towards the outside of the body.

This is because I plan to do a slatted design outside of this layer and wanted a dark color to be in between each slat. I’m attaching these sheets by first pre drilling then running in a screw along the bottom. Then also running in a screw to connect the top of the boards together. When going into thin wood like this 1/2” plywood, I switch over to using trim head screws like these here.

Step 3: Framing out the Top and Attaching it to the Body

The next thing I did was frame out the top side. These members will give me support to secure the top in the next step. They can be tricky to add since there is nothing except the plywood to connect them to the bottom framing so what I did was use a clamp to hold it in place once I got it lined up to the top of the ply. Again using the trim head screws to secure it. I started with the two longer pieces then connected the two shorter sides in between.

Alrighty, now lets throw the top on. This is another piece of exterior rated plywood that I painted the top side of. The hole in the center will be where the fire tray gets inserted later. I lined it up to the body then secured it down by first pre drilling around the perimeter then running in some screws. All over I made sure to sink the heads of the screws so that nothing would prevent the slats that will come next, to attaching flush to the body.

I’m going to leave that as is for a bit and start making the slats that will cover it.

Step 4: Making the Slats to Cover the Body

For this part I’m going with western red cedar 1×4 boards. This is what will take this boring box and turn it into something gorgeous to look at. I started by taking my full length boards and ripping them to width at the table saw. I made the slats half the width so two slats could come out of one board. Now I’m going to go with a water fall look so that the top boards will miter over into the side boards. To achieve this, I turned my table saw blade to a 45 and used the miter gauge to

 cut the boards to length. When setting up my fence, I place a clamp and a scrap board to act as a stop block. Notice how I place this far enough back on the fence so that the board will no longer be touching this scrap once it contacts the blade. If it contacts both at the same time, it creates a pitch zone which causes kickback. This is a fast way to make lots and lots of repetitive cuts.

To put the miters together, I use exterior wood glue once again then also reenforce the joint with a few 23 gauge brad nails. Nice and simple. Next I repeated that same process to create a whole bunch of them. Since the pattern is the same in all four quadrants, I could prep all the parts and have them staged on my workbench. This also gave the glue time to set up.

Step 5: Applying the Slats to the Fire Pit Body

With that done, this next step will fly. Lets start applying the slats to the body. So the sides will have verticals that come up and meet the top slats. With that, I want the top covering the end grain of the verticals so I make sure to hold up a scrap to get the spacing correct. You can see I move it along as I work on securing that first board, but then after that the rest can get laid down with just a spacer. I also move this spacer along to make sure the slat is getting attached parallel the entire length of the board. See me using it on the top but also on the side.

My spacer is just a random scrap I found to be the size needed for the gap. When I get to the inside most slat, I hold it in place so that I can go to the inside with a pencil and mark the center hole opening. I think it’s easier to cut this now with a bandsaw but know that you can also attach it and cut it after the fact with a jigsaw or even a flush trim bit in a router. The fire tray with cover it so no need to make it super pretty.

Step 6: Creating the Propane Tank Door

I’m using a few streaks of DAP Dyna grip on each one of these before the brad nails. This is my favorite construction adhesive as it’s incredibly fast setting and works for both interior and exterior projects. You can see next I repeated much of the same process but this time with just straight vertical boards. These are butted up right to the underside of the overhanging top slat and I make sure to use the same spacer so things remain consistent.

All these slats hang past the body slightly because I personally wanted casters on mine so that I can make this thing mobile when not in use. The overhanging amount will cover the added height. This big gap here will be a removable panel to allow me to access the inside propane tank. I’m using magnets here and attach them by counterboring into the framing material then screwing in a magnet.

Now I can attach a washer on a screw to the door on all four corners to correspond to these magnets. Once the door is in place, I could repeat the process of attaching verticals to make it disappear into the body.

Step 7: Applying Finish to the Fire Pit

Lets go ahead and put a coat of finish on them to really see them pop. In order to get in all the nooks and crannies of the sides of the slats, I’m spraying on my finish but you could absolutely just roll or brush it on instead. I’m using my Wagner HVLP which makes very quick work of this step. For a finish I’m going with the Total Boat Gleam 2.0 as it dries quickly, does a great job at leveling out on it’s own, and what I most like is that it has UV resistors in it so this cedar will hold up even though it will be outside.

Step 8: Adding Casters to Make the Fire Pit Mobile

Oops, If forgot to show you when I attached the casters. But back after attaching all the slats, I tiled the box over and screwed on a few casters which is what is allowing me to rotate this thing around to show you all sides.

I personally like the idea of it having casters on it because it will only be getting used during the winter months but for the summer months, I like the idea of pushing it out of the way and using this space for something else. Once I picked out where I wanted my fire table to be I started loading in the appliances to make it work. The tray slips right into the center opening and comes with pretty simple instructions on hooking it up to a propane tank.

You can’t lay a normal propane tank on it’s side so if you build one of these you either need to redesign it so it can stand upright or buy one that is designed specifically to be laid over.

Step 9: Finishing details! Adding Rocks, Chairs, and Drinks!

Now I need to fill it with rock, grab my portable chair, and a drink and enjoy. As you can see there is plenty of space for company to join me and also plenty of space to set drinks or a plate of food on the unit itself. However remember that I have plans for this larger unit but also a more compact unit if you’re interested in building one yourself.

Conclusion

If a fire pit has been on your to do list then I hope this video has given you some good inspiration to tackle it this fall. Be sure to check out my website for a set of plans for this build as well as several others. I’ll see you on whatever I’m building next.

Additional Things I Used in the Build:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Armor Tool Mobile Workbench
• Wilker Do’s Mobile Workbench Upgrade Plans
• Triton SuperJaws

Compost Bin Plans

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Material I Used to Build The Compost Bins:

• Wood
• Compost Bin plans
• Decomposed granite
• Hardware cloth
• Saw
• Chisel

Step 1: Building the posts for the Compost Bins

I have a set of plans for this larger size I made myself but I also have a set of plans that is smaller. Since I live on land and have a huge garden, I wanted the extra capacity. I’m placing this right outside my garden, next to a potting shed I built a few years ago. I’m going to skip digging holes because that’s standard practice but know there are 8 needed for this build and a 4×4 can be placed in each one. The back posts are simply cut to size, then plopped in their spot.

The front ones, have a center channel that runs most of the way down. These are what make the front slats adjustable. To cut these in, I go to the table saw. A trick to cutting in the channel easily is to set up two fences. I make my first pass by using the table saw fence which is set up to establish the far right boundary of the channel.

On my second pass, I use a scrap straight board that is aligned to the left of the needed channel. Another scrap is placed on the outfeed table to establish the depth of the channel. When it comes time to run the third pass, I don’t use either fence, but instead float my 4×4 in between the two to clear out as much of the center as I can.

Don’t worry if you don’t get it all though, a chisel can do the rest of the clean up work. Typically when working with a chisel, you want to use the big flat portion to move along the wood. However, in situations like these where the handle prevents you from getting down flat, know you can flip it over and use this small bevel instead. It’s a smaller surface area so it’s harder to keep flat, but just place a finger or two down on it to help.

Step 2: Preparing the Posts to be Placed in the Ground

Ok, with the channels made, lets put these posts in their place in the front line up. With posts going in the ground, make sure you’re using pressure treated wood. In fact, I recommend using Prowood which even has labeling to help you pick out the correct treated material for your specific project. For my posts, I made sure to find the label that said “ground contact”.

One of my favorite things about Prowood is they use the latest advancement in pressure treated lumber to color treat their wood! So instead of the standard green tone, you can now choose from a variety of colors and skip the staining step. The wood is color infused so pigment is driven deep into the wood fibers that’s warrantied to stand up to the elements for years

Step 3: Placing the Posts in the Ground

Let’s move on to setting these posts in the ground. I didn’t feel like messing with concrete so for this project I used decomposed granite as an alternative. This stuff can be found bagged in the garden section. On every post, I fill the hole up about 1/3 of the way, then I tamp it down, aka compact it.

To get it started I prefer to use a short scrap and I chose a 1x so I can fit into the tight spots around the posts. I’m going for enough compaction to keep the post from leaning a ton so that I have both hands to place a level on one side of the post and push it into plumb. Once I have it there, I compress more, then repeat on the other face of the same post. After getting it just right, I fill up the hole further then really try my best to compact it tight.

I have a rock bar, because everybody in the hill country does, and it actually comes with a 2” round tamp on one end, so that’s what I use.

I recommend you start with an end, then hop down the line to set the other end post, then knock out the in betweens. More than making sure each post is plumb on two faces, you also want to make sure the faces are square to one another, I’m using that long 1×4 to test this.

Step 4: Leveling the Posts

Next I made all the compost bin posts level to each other. To do this, I found the height of the shortest post, then cut the top off the others posts to match it. I did this with two passes using a circular saw. This is faaaaar easier than trying to get all 8 holes exactly to the same depth.

While I was cutting, I cut in a shoulder on all four of the back posts. Be watchful because if you move around a post as much as I did here, you’lI absolutely have to replumb it. A good tip is to don’t be too worry about perfectly plumb until now, just get it close, because the next step is to add a 2×4 that reaches across all four of these back posts to secure them together.

At this point I made sure the posts were perfectly plumb then I could tamp away and compact it as much as I could.

Step 5: Adding Screening to the Compost Bin

Go ahead and take your time on setting these posts because if they are plumb and square, then it will make everything else from here fly. The next step is to dress off the back of the compost bin. There are a few options you could go with for screening but I recommend hardware cloth. I’m using a crown stapler to pin it into place, trying to work out the bubbles as I go. I pin it in just a few places to hold it down, then once I don’t have to hold it any longer, I go back and thoroughly attach it. I imagine there will be a decent amount of pressure once these compost bins are full.

To cut hardware cloth you can absolutely use a pair of side cutters but a much faster way is to use a right angle grinder with a cut off wheel. Don’t worry if you get into the wood a bit.

Step 6: Cutting Railings for the Compost Bin

At this point I go back to my shop and cut some rails that will span from the back posts to the front ones. I use my bandsaw to cut in two different shapes on one end of these pieces. The T’s will be placed in the center, while the Ls will be placed on the outside. On all of these, I start by attaching the back of the rail to the back post. When I move to attach the front, I move the rail in or out with my knee. Things should be plumb at this point, but each one was slightly off. No problem though, After pinning it in front, I could once again tamp down the granite.

Step 7: Hardware Cloth for the Compost Stalls

With these rails in place you can see the shape of each stall appearing. To complete it, I wall it in using hardware cloth on all the inside faces. These are roughly cut to size first to make handling them a little bit easier, but once I start pinning them, I let them run long on the front because it’s easy to trim perfectly to length after. In fact, if you have a buddy around, have them grab a pair of square nose pliers and pull the hardware cloth tight while you secure it. This is most useful on the front home stretch.

Note: that this air gap in between each stall is intentional. Airflow is a big contributor to a healthy compost pile that won’t stink. If you do compost right, which includes air flow annnd a balance of brown and green layers, then odor shouldn’t be an issue.

Step 8: Walling off the Front of the Compost Bin

Alright, lets wall off the front. To keep the bottom slat from resting on the ground, I ran in a screw to interfere with the track on the 4x4s. This means, I can now feed in slats as tall or as low as I want for each stall. I’ll probably leave them all high while filling and letting the compost cook, but it will be very useful to take off slats as I’m removing the compost for use.

Note: treated wood vs. non-treated wood

if you’re worried about using treated wood around compost know that the main ingredient in Prowood pressure treated lumber is actually copper, which is used in frying pans and even water lines. The technical name is Micronized Copper azole which still makes the wood termite and fungal resistant but means you can use it on food prep surfaces. It also means other benefits like it’s more natural looking, less corrosive to fasteners, and color treated boards will outlast cedar and redwood boards, hands down.

Step 9: Protecting the Compost Bin by Adding Lids

Ok one last component and this compost bin project will be a wrap, in order to keep animals out, next I built some lids. These are pretty simple construction with some 2x2s and more hardware cloth. I built these inside my shop because it’s way easier to do on a large surface than on the ground.

I started by attaching the cloth to one of the 2x2s, then flipped it over and attached the long side to this short side. Then just repeated on the remaining two sides. Again, going for air flow but a no critter zone.

To attach them to the compost bin, I started by screwing on a few hinges to the back of the body. Then I set the lid in place, lined it up to this hinge then secured it with screws. Regardless on how long you have the front wall, this lid will close down but lets go ahead and install all the slats and take a look.

You can absolutely leave it as is but I installed a simple string attachment with a small weight in order to make lowering the doors a little easier. And you’re done! You’ve built your own compost bin!

I am just now getting into composting so I know I don’t know much, but I think this three section compost bin rock! There are three bays because there are three stages of composting. I’ll always have one that I’m filling, one that is in the cooking stage, then one that will be ready to use compost. It will be close to two years before I have this third ready to use but once I invest the time, I should always have a stall rotating into use.

The front wall is super easy to lower, or raise depending on the task that’s needed, the lids will keep animals out but lets in moisture and airflow, and unlike compost methods that require tumbling, I’ll be able to layer up green and brown things to let sit until ready. It’s a super low maintenance compost bin.

****Remember I have a set of compost bin plans if you would like to build your own. I have this set which is large, but also the same design on a smaller scale. You can also go to prowoodlumber.com and find out where to buy Prowood for your next build. **** I’ll see you on my next project!

Additional Things I Used in this Build

• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)

Have you ever wanted to give your food that smoky flavor but don’t want to deal with the hassle of a huge smoker? I recently discovered cold smoking food and I’m obsessed! Cold smokers can be made out of anything since they don’t have high heat or a flame. Let’s make one!

DIY Cold Smoker

$9.99

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Materials I Used to Build This Cold Smoker:

• Wood
• Wood Glue
• Brad Nailer
• Wood Stain
• Cold Smoker Plans

Step 1: Preparing Materials for the Build

First know that I have a set of plans for this one plus a larger unit if you’re interested in building your own. The smaller one you’ll see me build has four racks but the larger unit has more.

I have so much scrap wood piled up in my shop that I pulled from it instead of buying anything new. To start, I went to the table saw and ripped down some material to make up the legs. Regardless if you use scrap or buy new, just don’t use anything that’s treated since this will be around food.

I made two sets of legs by using a cross piece to join two legs to each other. On all these joints, I pre drilled first to prevent splitting. Next I laid out marks for where I wanted my shelves on the inside of the legs. These will be what my racks rest on. I went to my scrap bin to find something suitable then chopped them to size before attaching. To attached, I used a little bit of Daps Weldwood wood glue then my 18 gauge brad nailer. I repeated on the other set of legs. I set both assemblies next to each other so I could just make sure the racks lined up with one another.

Next is to flip the assemblies 180 but it’s important to keep them situated so that the racks stay aligned to one another. Now I’ll sheath this side, which will be the outside.

Step 2: Sheathing and Creating the Leg Assemblies

Now the sheathing can be made from a lot of things but since you don’t want gaps, I used a thin tongue and groove pine paneling that I’ve actually had left over from a project I did back in 2013. The tongue and groove feature will allow each piece to connect seamlessly to the next board. Since I have a lot of the same length needed in this next step, I set up a stop block at the miter saw, then made sure to hold the length of board in between this stop and the blade, as this is the point that could kick back, then chopped the needed number of parts.

I took these over to my workbench with my leg assemblies and started attaching them. Again, I’m using a bit of wood glue on each one then throwing in some brads to hold it while it dries. I made sure to keep the orientation of the legs because they aren’t identical, they need to mirror each other but as you can see, it goes nice and quick. After getting the second side skinned I joined them to each other with some cross members at the top. Again, pre drilling and driving in screws.

Step 3: Attaching a Bottom and Making the Back of the Cold Smoker

To attach a bottom, I stood the unit up and grabbed some more cedar scrap since it’s 3/4” thick. I didn’t bother nailing them in as I’m thinking these might need to get replaced in the future.

Next I laid it back down and started making a back. This is also made from that tongue and groove paneling and I just laid the boards out starting from one side and work my way over, then cut the last piece to fit. Once I liked the fit, I flipped it over so that I could attach some horizontal pieces that will keep all these back boards held together. Again using wood glue and brad nails here. Now I could flip it over and secure it in place. To do this, I placed one screw at the top and one at the bottom.

Step 4: Making a Door for the Cold Smoker

Oooook, now lets flip it 180 and repeat almost all the same steps to make a door for the front. The one draw back to this paneling is how thin it is. Actually I like how thin it is because that means it’s light weight, but since a hinge needs meat to attach the door to the body, I built up it’s thickness by grabbing more cedar boards, mitering the ends, and creating a border that I then glued and nailed onto the front side of the paneling. I flipped the door on it’s face to put the brads in from the backside so you won’t see the holes from the front.

Perfect, and now I have a door. To attach it, I grabbed two hinges and placed them near the top and bottom, making sure to pre drill to prevent splitting.

Step 5: Building a Roof for the Cold Smoker

Alrighty, that works just as it should. I’ll worry about a handle and keeping it shut in a few steps. For now, I’m going to build out the roof. The roof is made a little uniquely as it’s important to have adjustable vent holes at the top of the unit. In order to do this easily, I attached one board of cedar with screws, but then grabbed one piece of that thin paneling for the next board. This I brad nailed in place. Then followed it up with another cedar board to finish. Screwing this one down as well.

Ok next, I cut another piece of paneling to the same size as the center board, held it in place, then used a forstner bit to drill two vent holes through both boards at the same time. This will mean the holes line up perfectly with one another when the boards are in line. However, if I want to close off or even partial open or close off the vents, then I just have to slide the top board one way or the other. Cool.

Step 6: Putting Vent Holes into the Side of the Cold Smoker

Ok great, now lets work on the side vent holes. Now remember I’ve just learned about this cold smoking thing so I’m not sure if there are better placement for the holes or not, but I put some up top and some down low. I wanted to utilized some of the paneling cut offs so I made two short pieces for the top. I glued and nailed these in place with my 23 gauge pin nailer. Then I held in place a full width panel then another a bottom rail, if you will.

The idea is the full width panel will slide so I connected the tongue and groove feature to the top rails already in place but then pulled it down just slightly to create some room. I glue and nailed on the bottom rail. I took some measurements and made some marks so that I could drill my two vent holes, again going through both layers at the same time. Now if all is done right, I’ll be able to open or close the vents by simply sliding this outer most board.

Of course that one I pick to show on camera is the hard one. Ha. This center board has a slight bow to it which make it stick slightly, but it’s still easy enough. Here look at the others….see easy. : )

Step 7: Adding Finishing Touches

Ok, now just some finishing touches to the cold smoker! On the outside of the door, I put a handle. Then on the inside, I applied a strip of some foam gasket stuff. My thinking here is to seal the door way off better. I honestly don’t know if it matters because it isn’t like you’re going for 100% airtight here, but I figured it couldn’t hurt. It’s a simple peel and stick process.

Then once that was in place, I worked on a latch. I utilized a clamp lightly applying pressure on the door to get the placement of this latch correctly. This way, when it’s latched shut, the door will be just slightly compressing that foam gasket. Yay!!!

Lets knock out a finish. I need something food safe for the inside and my go to is this Wood Honey by Total Boat. This finish is not only easy to apply, as you can see I’m just wiping it on, but it’s good for anything that will be around food such as bowls or countertops. Then for the outside of the cold smoker I’m going with Total Boat’s Halcyon. This is another one that is really easy to apply, I chose to use a foam brush, but it also dries to a UV stable gloss or stain finish. I recommend five coats of this but don’t worry, it dries so fast, you can easily apply them in a single day

Testing out the Cold Smoker!

Ok ok ok, lets try it out!

Ok so the concept is you place a tube with smoke pellets down here. I went ahead and laid down a piece of steel just in case an ember falls out of the tube. You light up one end….not to where it has a flame, but is just smoldering. This apparently will go for hours and you can buy pellets in all different flavors like hickory, pecan, apple, and mesquite. I made the sizing of my unit fit cooking racks so that I can place whatever I want to smoke, on top and slide them in.

I also bought a thermometer so I can stay in touch with how cool or hot the smoker is. For cheese, it needs to be kept around 80-85 degrees. I’ll tell you right now, this is a blast. The olives and okra only take about 20 mins and the cheese takes 2 hours. It smells great, tastes good, and is a very quick and easy build. I hope you enjoyed following along and remember if you want to build your own cold smoker, I do have a set of plans for a few different sizes.

Things I used to Build the Cold Smoker

• DAP Weldwood Wood Glue
• 1/2″ Peel & Stick Weather Stripping
• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• TotalBoat Halcyon (Use code TBAprilW for 10% off)
• TotalBoat Wood Honey (Use code TBAprilW for 10% off)
• TotalBoat Halcyon (Use code TBAprilW for 10% off)

Thinking about building your own DIY storage bench? Check out this easy DIY storage bench project! It can be completed in 1 day!

In this video, I’m going to be building an outdoor storage bench! It’s at a nice and comfortable sitting height, but the lid is on a hinge so I can open it and stow away the cushions when they are not in use.

This is a quick one-day project! So if you are needing a storage trunk for anything, I have a set of plans (that includes material and cut lists) and a CNC cut file:

• Indoor Outdoor Storage Bench Build Plans
• Indoor Outdoor Storage Bench Build Plans with CNC Cut File

DIY Storage Bench

$9.99

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DIY Storage Bench – CNC Cut File

$4.99

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Check out the video above to see how I built it!

Introduction to DIY Storage Benches

A DIY storage bench is a great way to add storage and seating to any outdoor space. It is perfect for storing cushions, toys, and other items that you want to keep out of sight but still within easy reach. These benches come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and styles, so you can find one that fits your needs and looks great in your outdoor space. Plus, they are easy to build and maintain, so you can enjoy your new bench for years to come.

Benefits of DIY Storage Benches

DIY storage benches offer many benefits over traditional outdoor furniture. First, they are more affordable than buying a ready-made storage bench from a store. You can save money by building the bench yourself and using materials you already have on hand. Second, you can customize the design of your bench to fit your outdoor space, allowing you to create a unique piece of furniture that will be the centerpiece of your outdoor area. Finally, a DIY storage bench can provide extra seating for entertaining or simply relaxing outdoors.

Materials Needed for a DIY Storage Bench

Building a DIY storage bench requires a few basic materials. You will need wood for the frame, plywood for the panels, and screws or nails to hold the frame together. You will also need a saw, drill, and other tools to cut the wood and assemble the frame. Finally, you will need paint or stain to finish the wood and protect it from the elements.

Step-by-Step Guide to Building a DIY Storage Bench

Once you have gathered all the materials you need, you can begin building your DIY storage bench. The first step is to measure and mark the wood for the frame. Next, cut the wood to size and assemble the frame. Once the frame is assembled, add the plywood panels and attach them to the frame using screws or nails. Finally, seal the wood with paint or stain and let it dry before using.

Tips for Building a DIY Storage Bench

Building a DIY storage bench is not difficult, but there are a few tips that can make the process easier. First, make sure to measure twice and cut once to ensure that all the pieces fit together correctly. Second, use a power drill to make drilling holes in the wood easier and faster. Finally, use a sanding block to smooth any rough edges on the wood before applying the finish.

Decorating Ideas for Your DIY Storage Bench

Once your DIY storage bench is built, you can add some decorative touches to make it unique and inviting. One easy way to spruce up your bench is to add cushions or pillows for extra seating or to make the bench more comfortable. You can also use outdoor fabric to make a removable slipcover for the bench or to create a patterned design. Finally, add some outdoor accessories such as lanterns or planters to complete the look.

Troubleshooting Common Problems with DIY Storage Benches

Building a DIY storage bench is not without its challenges. One common problem is that the frame may not be square if the wood is cut incorrectly. To fix this problem, use a square to check the frame before adding the panels. Another problem is that the wood may warp if it is not sealed properly. To prevent this, make sure to seal the wood with paint or stain before using it.

Where to Buy Storage Benches Pre-Made

If you don’t want to build your own storage bench, there are many ready-made benches available for purchase. These benches come ready-to-use, or with all the materials you need to assemble the bench, including the wood, screws, and other hardware. You can buy these online or in home improvement stores like Lowes or Home Depot.

Conclusion

Building a DIY storage bench is a great way to add storage and seating to your outdoor space. With a few basic materials and tools, you can create a unique piece of furniture that will last for years. Plus, you can customize the design to fit your space and add decorative touches to make it one-of-a-kind. If you are needing a storage trunk for anything, I have a set of plans (that includes material and cut lists) and a CNC cut file. These two plans are here Indoor Outdoor Storage Bench Build Plans, or here if you need the CNC file – Indoor Outdoor Storage Bench Build Plans with CNC Cut File. Start building your new Outdoor Storage Bench today!

Things I Used in This Indoor Outdoor DIY Storage Bench Project:

• Roseburg Armorite Exterior MDF
• Armorite Prime/Paint/Finish Guidelines
• Sealing/Priming/Painting Armorite Video
• Crescent Linesman Pliers
• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

Trying to figure out how to refinish a deck? In this DIY project I’ll show you how, and figure out whether to sand it or strip it, and without chemicals!

Check out the video above to check out my process.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

Thinking about building your own DIY Fire Pit Table? Check out this DIY project where I used a really easy to use gas burner to speed up this project!

To prepare for fall, I decided that I’m going to build myself a DIY Fire Table!

I designed the table with a slatted design that has plenty of room for multiple people to sit around. Check out the video above to see how I built it!

Small Fire Table Plans

Large Fire Table Plans

DIY Fire Table Plans

$9.99

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Things I Used in This DIY Fire Pit Table Project:

• Western Red Cedar
• TotalBoat Wood Sealer (Use code TBAprilW for 10% off)
• TotalBoat Gleam 2.0 (Use code TBAprilW for 10% off)
• Wagner HVLP Sprayer
• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• 18″ Fire Pan Kit
• Horizontal Propane Tank
• Fire Glass Beads (3 x 10lbs)
• Cover

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Trying to figure out how to repair a deck yourself? Look no further because in this post I’ll show you how I repaired my rotting deck and saved my house!

Ok maybe I’m being a little dramatic but technically it is true. I started noticing signs that things were not right and began investigating, only to find some serious issues with my deck structure.

Check out the video above to see what I found and see how I fixed it!

Things I Used in This How To Repair A Deck Project:

• Fence Armor Postsaver® Pro-Sleeve & Pro-Wrap
• DynaGrip Heavy Duty
• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

Looking to build your own DIY Raised Planter Box? Look no further because in this DIY project I’ll be showing you exactly how to build your own!

In this video, I’m going to be building myself this simple free-standing herb planter. A few weeks back I made a multi layered planter and loved it. But, I wanted a taller one for my porch. Let me show you how I built it!

DIY Free-Standing Planter

$9.99

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DIY Free Standing Planter Plans

You can also check out this really cool set of planter templates and plans!

Pyramid Planter Templates and Plans

$9.99 – $29.99

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Pyramid Planter Plans

Things I Used in This DIY Raised Planter Box Project:

• Lomi by Pela
• Triton Sander
• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Thinking about building your own DIY Storage Cabinet? Check out this easy DIY project where I built my own storage cabinet for my garage!

Today I’m taking an unorganized outdoor patio and tidying it up some by building an outdoor cabinet. Instead of having outdoor yard tools and other miscellaneous things scattered around looking messy, they can all be in the same area and tucked away out of sight.

Check out the video above to see how I built it!

Outdoor Cabinet Plans

$9.99

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Cabinet Plans

Things I Used in This DIY Storage Cabinet Project:

Roseburg Armorite Exterior MDF

Armorite Prime/Paint/Finish Guidelines

DAP Weldwood Contact Cement

Shop Sabre CNC

Stihl RE110 Pressure Washer

ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)

3/4″ Overlay Hinges

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Looking to build your own DIY Planter in the shape of a pyramid? Look no further because I just built my own, plus designed easy-to-use DIY Plans!

In this video, I’m going to show you how I built this herb planter! Outside of finish, it only takes a few hours. So if this is on your to-do list, check out the video above and jump into the steps.

Pyramid Planter Templates and Plans

$9.99 – $29.99

Shop now

Planter Plans and Templates

Things I Used in This DIY Planter Project:

• Western Red Cedar (Real Cedar)
• TotalBoat Wood Sealer (Use code TBAprilW for 10% off)
• TotalBoat Gleam 2.0 (Use code TBAprilW for 10% off)
• Triton TPT125/Planer
• Triton TQTRSS/Orbital Palm Sander
• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Do you ever want to slide in to a picnic table design instead of stepping over the bench seat? If so, this is the picnic table for you. Check out the video above!

Things I Used in This Picnic Table Design Project:

• Southern Yellow Pine
• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• Stealth Mask Respirator (use code APRIL for 10% off)

Two Person Picnic Table Plans

$9.99

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Two Person Picnic Table Plans

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

Thinking about putting in your own DIY deck railing? Check out this project where I put railing on my own backyard treehouse deck! Easy!

You guys remember my awesome floating tree deck at the Hill Country Wood Shed? Today, I’m finishing the build by showing you how I installed a DIY rod railing system by Viewrail from start to finish. This modern rod rail system is easy to install, perfect for exterior use and gorgeous to view!

Check out the video above to see how we did it.

You can also watch part 1 and part 2 of my floating deck build here.

Things I Used in This DIY Deck Railing Project:

• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• Stealth Mask Respirator (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• Viewrail Aluminum Slim Slide Mount Posts
• Viewrail Ipe Air Dried Handrail
• Viewrail Rod Installation Kit
• Cut Off Tool
• Stihl BGA 86 Battery Blower
• Armorite Exterior MDF

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair: An easy way to build your own!

Looking to build a DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair to make your porch more inviting? Follow along with me as I show you how to build one in less than a day!

The DIY templates I use to build this Adirondack Rocking Chair allowed me to build this entire chair in just an afternoon, totally stress free!

This article will teach you how to follow along with April Wilkerson as she teaches you how to build a DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair in just one day!

Following along?
If you want to follow along with me then take a look at getting the templates I used to make this DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair! The templates make the build super easy to follow and completely eliminates the guess work.

Rocking Adirondack Chair Templates

$9.99 – $19.99

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Materials for the DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

To Build the DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair, you are going to need a few things from either The Home Depot or your local home improvement store. These Include the following:

1. Pressure treated 1x lumber
2. Exterior wood glue (Titebond 3 works best)
3. Optional Finish (Stain, Paint or Top Coat)
4. And of Course – Digital Plans and Templates!
5. Fasteners

Step 1: Trace out your templates onto your stock pieces for your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

The first step in creating your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair is to trace out your templates onto your 1x lumber. You may be using 1x4s 1x6s ect. so it is best to trace out as many pieces onto one piece of lumber as you can. The goal here is to map out exactly what we need to cut out in order to assemble it all later.

Step 2: Cutting out your pieces for your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

Once you have completed tracing out all your pieces using your templates it comes time to cut out your parts.

We are first going to cut the pieces to length on the Miter Saw so that way they are more manageable on the Band saw. I use my miter saw on the DIY Miter Saw Stand I built here in my shop.

Cut your tracing just out side the line and make an organized pile of your pieces to the side. If you don’t own a miter saw, then you can always use a circular saw too.

Next you are going to want to cut your templates out on your band saw. If you don’t have a band saw then no worries at all, you can use a jig saw for this portion.

Be sure to stay about 1/8″ – 1/4″ outside the line when cutting out your pieces. (Unless you are utilizing the paper templates or plastic templates – then cut right on the line and go slow!)

The reason we are cutting outside the line is because we are then going to use the MDF Template as a guide to flush cut the piece perfectly to size on the router table.

We cut away all the material we do not need with the band saw because the router is only able to take off so much material safely. If you were to try to skip the band saw step and move right over to the router table you would increase your risk of major injury, and completely dull out your router bit.

Step 3: Flush Trimming the Pieces of your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

Now it is time to flush trim the stock pieces with a flush trim up-cut bit. The benefit to using an MDF Template is that you can tape the template to your stock piece with double sided sticky tape and then run the template against the bearing of the flush trim bit in your router table.

The bearing will block the bit from cutting any deeper than what the bearing is placed against. So in our case the bearing is placed against the MDF Template and will allow us to trim the stock piece to the EXACT form of the MDF Template.

If you do not have a router table, then don’t worry, a hand held router will work just as well. Just go slo and be sure to clamp your stock piece & MDF firmly to a work station so it does not spin out of control.
If you are using a hand held router, then you can use either a bottom bearing or a top bearing flush trim bit and just orient your template and stock accordingly.

Go ahead and trim all your stock pieces now.

Step 3: (Paper and Plastic Templates) Cutting Out your Pieces.

If you are not using the MDF Templates, but are using the Printable Paper Templates or Plastic Templates then this Version of Step 3 is for you!

Once you carefully cut out the stock pieces from your trace lines, you will then want to clean up the edges with a sander. Make sure to remove all the blade marks that were left from your Jig saw or bandsaw. Once you get all those blade marks up, make sure each piece aligns the best it can with the original template.

Step 4: Round over your stock pieces for your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

Before assembly, I be sure to round-over all my pieces over at the router table. I went ahead and added a round over bit in my router and just went to town. This round over profile will ensure that there are no sharp corners that could catch on clothing, or give you a splinter later on. It also adds to the overall aesthetic of the Adirondack rocking chair.

Again, if you do not own a router table, a hand held router will do just fine here.

Step 5: Assembling the Seat for your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

Now it comes time for assembly! Assembly is always the best part of any build as you finally get to see your piece come together.

I first laid out the two bottom supports and glued and screwed the front most slats! I recommend pre-drilling your holes here to prevent splitting. Pre-drilling is just drilling out a small (usually 1/8″) hole into the pieces you are screwing together. This allows the screw to spin into place without the wood splitting or cracking around it.

Next I went ahead and added the back most slat and made sure it was square using a speed square. This provides the seat with a little more structure for me to glue and screw in the rest of the slats.

Next, I fill in the space with all the slats in between. You can use a spacer between each slat to make sure that the space between the slats is even, or you could just eyeball it like me.

The back spacer allows us to make sure the entire piece is square, so we don’t have to worry about checking for square as we attach each slat.

Step 6: Assembling the back of your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

Now let’s move onto the assembling the back of the chair for your Adirondack Rocking Chair. Start by grabbing your lower and upper supports and lay them on edge.

Find the center of both of your supports and mark it with a pencil. I find it easier to start in the middle and then work out from there. You’ll want to layout your center most slat and then glue and screw it into the bottom support.

Make sure your supports are in line with one another. You can do this by using a loose slat and a speed square to ensure they are square and in line. Then you can attach your center slat to your top support.

Now just work your way out, spacing each slat equidistant from the previous slat. Glueing and screwing as you go. Make sure you pre-drill your holes for your screws again to reduce the chance of splitting the wood.

Congratulations! You now have a back to your chair.

Step 7: Attach the Back to the Seat of your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

It is now time to attach the back of your Adirondack Rocking chair to the seat. First let’s make sure the back fits into place.

Perfect fit! Then we are going to permanently attach it with glue and screws right into that seat support. This will be a perfect fit if you are following along with the plans and templates that I provide in my store.

Now let’s let the seat and back assembly hang out on our workbench while we start to assemble the rocker assembly.

Step 8: Assembling the Rocker assembly for you DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

I am putting together the rocker assembly with one of my favorite methods: using a half lap. A half-lap is putting together two layers of 1x material instead of cutting a recess in 2x material. Everything is intertwined to create strength, but it is very simple and quick to assemble.

I always first lay out my parts to make sure everything fits together, but then after that it is as simple as gluing and nailing it all together. If you do not have a brad nailer then you can always screw these pieces together as well.

It is important here to make sure that the bottom rocker is really flat and smooth to ensure that you end up with a clean rock in the finished product. If you are using paper or plastic templates, the you can always come back and sand away any discrepancies.

Your rocker assembly should look like this. Then all you have to do is rinse and repeat for the second side, making sure you assemble the pieces in the inverse of your first side.

Make sure that you mirror the second side so it can be attached to the seat and back correctly.

Step 9: Attaching the main body of your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair to the Rockers

Now bring in your main body from your workbench and place it roughly in position of your rockers so you can see how it is going to be assembled.

I then put the body on its side and temporarily held it in place by throwing in a few brad nails

Again if you do not have a brad nailer you can always screw this in place.

Instead of trying to flip the whole unit 180 degrees to attach the other side, all you have to is slide it over on top of the second rocker assembly.

Now it’s time to flip the rocker up right and put in some carriage bolts. I put in a 1/4″ drill bit and drilled through from the outside of the leg through the seat stretcher. I drilled two holes to ensure it is secure. I then slid in the carriage bolts and bolted them in place. Then just rinse and repeat on the other side of the rocker.

Step 10: Attaching the arms to your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

Now if you are following along in the plans you’ll notice that the plans are different from the video. Originally I had a more complex way of attaching the arms, but I decided to make it simpler rather than over complicate things. These changes are reflected in the plans.

So if you’re following along with the video, I ended up detaching the chair back upper support and gluing and screwing the arms square to the support.

After I glued and screwed the arms in place I move the arm assembly back over to the chair and body to securely attach it to the rest of the chair.

It is as simple as screwing in the arms to the legs and the support back into the slats. Now, your chair is finally starting to come together!

And with that we are done! You can now move on to testing out and enjoying the fruits of your labor!

If you would like to make this project a breeze then it would certainly be worth checking out the plans I have available by clicking here!

Congratulations! You are finally done.

Bonus Tip

Now that your DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair is complete, you can do whatever you’d like to finish it. However, if you did build your chair with treated lumber or even cedar, then it will hold up well outside and resist rot.

But if you’d like you are welcome to paint your chair your favorite color or even finish it with a stain to make it match your home.

More Projects Like This DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair

If you are just getting started with building then you are obviously going to need a workbench!

Check out my DIY Workbench for your Garage

Other DIY Projects you may be interested in

• Folding Adirondack Chair
• Garage Work Bench Plans
• Porch Swing Plans
• Chicken Coop Plans
• Converting Picnic Table Plans

Things I Used In This DIY Adirondack Rocking Chair Project

• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• I Stealth Mask Respirator (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• Crescent Extendable Speed Square
• Triton Multitool
• ToughBuilt Kneepads
• Reelcraft Cord Reel
• DAP Weldwood Wood Glue

Rocking Adirondack Chair Templates

$9.99 – $19.99

Shop now

Thinking about building your own modern DIY outdoor sofa? Check out this project where I put one together with the DIY build plans I created!

In this video I’m showing you how I built an outdoor sofa from start to finish. It’s suitable for outdoors as it’s built from weather resistant western red cedar and easily outfitted with store bought cushions. Also check out some similar chairs my friend’s built below.

Outdoor Sofa Plans & Templates

$9.99

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Find plans for this DIY outdoor sofa here!

Things I Used in This DIY Outdoor Sofa Project:

• ISOtunes Hearing Protection (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• Stealth Mask Respirator (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• Armor Tool Mobile Workbench
• Reelcraft Cord Reel
• Triton Thickness Planer
• DIY Miter Saw Stand
• Triton Oscillating Belt Sander
• Total Boat Gleam Varnish
• Total Boat Wood Finish Varnish Primer

You can also check out Maker Gray’s Single Chair Build Video, or DIY Creator’s Removable Back Chair Video.

Outdoor Sofa Plans & Templates

$9.99

Shop now

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

In this video I’m showing you how I installed plumbing, with hot and cold water, for an outdoor shower. Having a shower outdoors in the hot Texas summers feel amazing!

Be sure and check out Part 1 of this project, which covers building the structure HERE

Find the DIY Outdoor Shower Plans here!

Check out my original video on the Outdoor Shower I built for my parents here.

How To Sweat Copper Pipe Video

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Stealth Mask Respirator (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• DAP Dynaflex Ultra Exterior Caulk
• PEX Tool Set
• Soldering Torch
• Valve Box
• PEX Elbows
• PEX Tees
• PEX Barb Clamp Rings
• Compression x 3/8 stop Valves
• Compression x PEX Stop Valves
• PEX x Hose Thread Stop Valve

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

In this video I’m showing you how I built an outdoor shower. Having a shower, outdoors in the hot Texas summers feel amazing. In this video, I cover building the structure.

Stay tuned as next week, I’ll cover how to plumb the shower with water lines from the house.

Find the DIY Outdoor Shower PLANS for this build here!

Or watch my first Outdoor Shower build here.

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection (code April for $10 off)
• Stealth Mask Respirator (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• Triton Circular Saw
• Scotch Rough Surface Painter’s Tape
• Scotch Sharp Lines Painter’s Tape
• 3M Hand Masker Advanced Masking Film
• Crescent Extendable Square
• 3M Hand Masker Advanced Masking Film
• Wagner Flexio 3000 Sprayer
• Trex Transcend Composite Decking
• Crescent Nite Eye Tape Measure
• Triton Track Saw
• Total Boat Halcyon Varnish

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Thinking about building your own DIY buffet table? Check out this project where I built my own outdoor buffet table that also has underneath storage!

In this video I am showing you how I built a custom Buffet Table for my Outdoor Kitchen. Now I have a spot to serve food and drinks and place condiments, napkins and more. I even included a drink inset for ice cold beverages and a mini fridge!

Things I Used in This DIY Buffet Table Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Stealth Mask Respirator (use code APRIL for 10% off)
• Armor Mobile Workbench
• Armor Pocket Hole Jig
• Armor Bench Dog Clamps
• Rockler Bandy Clamps
• Triton Tracksaw
• Rockler Dust Right Separator
• Rockler Flexiport Hose Kit
• Triton Jigsaw
• Glow Forge Laser
• Wilker Do’s Mallet

Find the Plans for this DIY Buffet Table here!

Buffet Table Plans

$9.99

Shop now

Check out My Whole Outdoor Kitchen Series here.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

In this video I’m showing you an overview of my whole Outdoor Kitchen build series, as well as showing you the completed structure and discussing lessons learned! Be sure to check out each section of the build below.

Outdoor Kitchen Build Series:

• Find Part 1 (building the deck) here.
• Find Part 2 (framing the roof) here.
• Find Part 3 (adding roofing) here.
• Find Part 4 (building an outdoor fireplace) here.
• Find Part 5 (wiring tips and tricks) here.
• Find Part 6 (concrete countertops) here.
• Find Part 7 (rain water collection) here.
• Find Part 8 (painting tips) here.
• Find Part 9 (landscape lighting) here.
• Find Part 10 (boardwalk walkway) here.

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Greenworks Leaf Blower

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

I recently built an outdoor kitchen and bar area, and found myself in need of some chairs. You don’t have to have the same set up, but if you find yourself needing some outdoor seating, the DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool is a great, versatile option.

• Materials I used to build a DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool:
• Wood
• Wood Glue
• Miter Saw
• screws
• DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool templates

Step 1: Cutting the pieces for the DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stools

The first thing I like to get started with is cutting all my wood down to size. I created a set of templates for this project and I find it easiest to cut all my boards first at the Miter Saw to get all the pieces roughly to their needed length. For the parts that are squared off I can get all this done at the miter saw. For parts that will have a curve and a template associated with them, I can temporarily attach the template and use a flush trim bit at my router table to cut them out and get identical parts.

Step 2: Putting together the leg assembly using wood glue

I like to lay out my parts just to make sure it looks right before applying wood glue. In order to get away from having to do so many half laps I recommend building up two layers of 1x material and weaving the layers together to create the legs. Once I glue the two boards together they’ll be bonded and have the strength of a 2x board. I used a Brad Nailer since I will be painting my chair, but you could also use clamps if you don’t want it peppered with holes. Make sure the legs are mirrored and not identical; you want a left and a right.

Tip: Making a 1x board with the strength of a 2x board.

I absolutely love this technique and have used it on builds in the past. You just need to make sure to get the boards smush together and joined all the way down.

Step 3: Preparing to connect the legs

For joining things, I used my armor tool self adjusting pug hole jig. in order to set the depth, i loosen the set screw and place the bit in the jig. This way when I put my material in it will automatically set the correct placement needed. I drilled in the needed pocket holes on either end of the parts needed to span between the legs.

Step 4: Attaching the Stretcher and Foot Rest

Once I had things in the proper place I went back to attaching the stretcher by placing wood glue on either end and fitting it into the space on the side of both legs. Then, I went around to the front and attached a stretcher that will be the support for the foot rest by screwing it into the side of the legs. Next, I applied wood glue to the foot rest and secured it on top of the stretcher.

Mistake Alert!

I made a mistake here. When I went to attach the stretcher, I noticed I got the two parts on the assembly backwards, which would put the stretcher in the front, instead of the back.

Step 5: Base for the Hardware That Will Make This a DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool

This is the final step to get the base of our DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool complete. Attach the base for the swiveling hardware called the lazy Susan. These are made by 2×6 with a bevel on either end. You can absolutely do this at a table saw with a sled but I stood mine up at the miter saw. After cutting the angle on one end I would flip the board around to get a mirrored angle on the other side. Secure it with pocket holes and wood glue on either side.

Step 6: Forming the DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool Seat

Starting this step off at the Miter Saw where I cut my boards down to length, then to the table saw to cut them to width. Afterwards I head over to the router table to curve the edges of the top side of slats with a round over.

Tool tip:

One of my favorite features of the tuition router is that I can lift it up while it is still on the table to do a bit change.

Step 7: Putting Pieces Together for the DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool Seat

Since I already cut the pieces for my bar stool seat with my templates at the very start so I applied wood glue to either end of the wood pieces but also added screws for some reinforced strength. To prevent splitting I used a counter sink first before adding in my screws. When spacing, I used a saucer to make this step go a little quicker and get each piece an even space.

Step 8: Putting together the DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stools arm assembly

These parts are made up of 1x material that has a true half lap cut in to join them together, it makes them fit together like puzzle pieces. I used my armor clamps to keep them together while the glue dries. Once it was dry I applied wood glue onto the side of the seat in order to attached the arms into place on either side of the seat assembly. I also nailed these into place as well just to provide some additional support.

Step 9: Creating the Back and Arm Assembly for your DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool

Next, I moved on to create the piece that will act as our arm rests and back support. These parts are made to match up perfectly with each other on the back so that it’s very easy to locate them and know that it’s correct. Once the arms are attached I slipped it into place on the seat assembly. This is another part that is attached with glue and screws. It can be difficult to put the screws in because the upward support is so thin so if you order a template I added hole locations to help you know where to put screws to prevent splitting.

Step 10: Putting the Back Assembly Together

This is a pretty standard Adirondack style fan back. While it is a simple shape, it’s easy to get a piece in the wrong place. I recommend starting by laying all the pieces out to make sure that they are in the right order before attaching anything. These are designed so that you can line up the bottoms as an easy way of seeing if anything is out of order.

For attaching it I recommend first finding center at the lower support and lining up the center slat center to the back support piece. Now you can work your way out with a space. If everything goes right it should slide into the back support piece that was attached to the arms in the previous step. Attach the lower support to the base of the seat and the middle to the base.

Step 11: Attaching the Back Support to the Seat Assembly

After you get the back piece put together it should fit perfectly in the back assembly we attached in Step 9. Attach the lower support to the base then the top of the slat to the top support. Both connection points was more glue and screws. I would recommend pre-drilling with a counter sink.

I will need something to attach the lazy Susan to so that the chair spins. I screwed in the two supports that will give me a base to the bottom of the chair.

Step 12: Cut the feet for the DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool

At the point, the feet of the legs are cut square, but since the base is a trapezoid, the feet need to be a compound angle cut on them so that they’ll be in full contact with the ground. Use a small spacer and a pencil to draw a line around each one of the feet. This will show you the exact compound angle you need.

Tool tip:

You can use circular saw or a flush trim saw, however I use a table saw with a sled to clamp down on the legs then the sliding table ability of my table saw to support the head as I move the chair through the blade. Hand saw is a great alternative for this step!

Step 13: Join the assemblies to complete your DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool!

Next, join the two assemblies together. First I attached the lazy Susan to the base center. Next I set the seat on top, centered it up, and crawled underneath and used the gap in the 2×6 support to get a screw into part B of the lazy Susan. Finally, I rotated the entire thing to access the other two places that needed to be screwed in. After you’ve secured the chair to the base, hop up and get to swiveling!

Conclusion

You did it! You’ve completed you’re own DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool. This build is so easy and so fun to do. The diverse uses for Adirondack Style chairs make them fit in any space. They’re also super easy to customize so stain or paint to your hearts content!

To help the building process, I also have build plans and templates:

• Find the templates and plans for the swiveling adirondack barstools here!
• Find the Folding Adirondack Chair templates here!

Watch the whole build series for the Outdoor Kitchen here.

Tips For Painting or Staining Your DIY Adirondack Swiveling Bar Stool

When it comes to painting or staining your Adirondack chair, there are a few things to keep in mind.

1. First, make sure to use oil-based paint or stain for the best results. Water-based products may not provide adequate protection from the elements.
2. Second, make sure to apply multiple coats for the best coverage. Applying multiple thin coats is better than one thick coat.
3. Third, make sure to let the chair dry completely before using it. This will ensure that the paint or stain has had enough time to cure and is fully protected from the elements.

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Armor Workbench
• Armor Dog Clamps
• Armor Pocket Hole Jig
• Decked Drawer System
• Stealth Mask Respirator
• Triton Router
• Crescent Connect Clamps
• Micro Jig Dovetail Clamps
• Bar Stool Swivel Plate

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Thinking about putting in your own DIY wooden walkway? Check out this project where I built my own wooden walkway to my outdoor kitchen!

In this project video I’m showing you how I very easily built a boardwalk walkway to my Outdoor Kitchen. I built simple 2×4 bases and connected them together to make a path, covering them with Trex Transcend Composite Decking boards to match my deck. I find this method to be easier than a brick, stone or gravel path. Check out the video to see it all come together!

You can also check out these other wooden stair projects of mine.

Things I Used in This DIY Wooden Walkway Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Stealth Mask
• Crescent Chalk Line
• Triton Track Saw
• Trex Transcend Composite Decking
• Simpson Deck Drive Composite Screws
• Simpson Screw Plugs

Outdoor Kitchen Build Series:

• Find Part 1 (building the deck) here.
• Find Part 2 (framing the roof) here.
• Find Part 3 (adding roofing) here.
• Find Part 4 (building an outdoor fireplace) here.
• Find Part 5 (wiring tips and tricks) here.
• Find Part 6 (concrete countertops) here.
• Find Part 7 (rain water collection) here.
• Find Part 8 (painting tips) here.
• Find Part 9 (landscape lighting) here.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Welcome to Part 9 of my Outdoor Kitchen Series! I’m showing you how I installed landscape lighting in and around my structure. I also installed pathway lighting and lighting for my trees. It looks amazing! Be sure to watch the video above to see how I did it. Stay tuned as next week I’ll show you how I built the boardwalk pathway.

Kichler Lighting Resource Links:

• Sizing Electrical Components
• Why You Should Hire A Pro
• Uplighting A Tree

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Pathway Lights
• LED Spotlights
• Recessed Lights
• Honeycomb Light Cover
• Pendent Lights
• Accent Lights
• Ceiling Fan
• Flood Lights
• Hardscape Lighting
• Light Timer
• Smart Control Timer
• Transformer
• Crescent 2 in 1 Pliers

Outdoor Kitchen Build Series:

• Find Part 1 (building the deck) here.
• Find Part 2 (framing the roof) here.
• Find Part 3 (adding roofing) here.
• Find Part 4 (building an outdoor fireplace) here.
• Find Part 5 (wiring tips and tricks) here.
• Find Part 6 (concrete countertops) here.
• Find Part 7 (rain water collection) here.
• Find Part 8 (painting tips) here.

Big thank you to Kichler for sponsoring this video! Go to Kichler to learn more about their products, hiring a contractor or where to buy.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

In part 8 of my Outdoor Kitchen build, I’m covering tips and tricks to help you get the best possible results for your painting project. You’ll want to give this video a watch if you have any painting projects in your future!

Stay tuned as next week I’ll cover how I installed my landscape lighting.

Big thank you to Valspar for sponsoring this video! Check out all that they offer here.

Thanks also to Scotch Painters Tape for helping me prep for my projects like a pro!

• Find Part 1 (building the deck) here.
• Find Part 2 (framing the roof) here.
• Find Part 3 (adding roofing) here.
• Find Part 4 (building an outdoor fireplace) here.
• Find Part 5 (wiring tips and tricks) here.
• Find Part 6 (concrete countertops) here.
• Find Part 7 (rain water collection) here.

Things I Used For This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Stealth Mask
• Diablo Sand Nets
• Greenworks Blower
• DAP Dynaflex Ultra Caulk
• DAP Platinum Patch
• Scotch Blue Tape
• Scotch Exterior Painters Tape
• 3M Hand Masker
• Masking Film
• Scotch Rough Surface Tape
• Scotch Heavy Duty Masking Tape
• Valspar Stain Blocking Exterior Primer Paint
• Valspar All Weather Exterior Primer Sealer
• Valspar Duramax Exterior Paint
• Triton Palm Sander
• Triton Mini Planer

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

In this video I am showing you how I built my own rain water barrel collection system on my outdoor kitchen! I used water barrels and materials easily collected from the big box home stores and I now I have running water on this structure. Be sure to watch the video above to see how I did it.

Stay tuned as my next video will show some tips and tricks on how we painted the Outdoor Kitchen!

Check out my larger Rain Water installation video here.

Outdoor Kitchen build series:

• Find Part 1 (building the deck) here.
• Find Part 2 (framing the roof) here.
• Find Part 3 (adding roofing) here.
• Find Part 4 (building an outdoor fireplace) here.
• Find Part 5 (wiring tips and tricks) here.
• Find Part 6 (concrete countertops) here.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Here we are at Part 6 of my Outdoor Kitchen build! In this video I’m showing you how to easily pour-in-place gorgeous concrete countertops, as well as how to install outdoor cabinets. Check out the video above to see how we did it.

And stay tuned as next week I’ll show you how to install rain water collection!

• Find Part 1 (building the deck) here.
• Find Part 2 (framing the roof) here.
• Find Part 3 (adding roofing) here.
• Find Part 4 (building an outdoor fireplace) here.
• Find Part 5 (wiring tips and tricks) here.

Thank you to these companies for sponsoring this video:

• Concrete Countertop Solutions
• Trex Outdoor Kitchens
• Smart Jars

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

We’re now onto Part 4 of my Outdoor Kitchen series! In this video, I’m going to show you how we framed and built an Outdoor Fireplace with wood storage. We then add cement backer board and stone work. Stay tuned as next week, we’ll add wiring and electrical for lighting and sound, and then following that, concrete countertops and more!

• Find Part 1 (building the deck) here.
• Find Part 2 (framing the roof) here.
• Find Part 3 (adding roofing) here.

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Diablo General Purpose Blade
• Stealth Mask Respirator
• Tough Built Kneepads
• Crescent ShockForce Tape
• Crescent Chalk Line

At the end of this series, I’ll have a fully functional outdoor kitchen, with a fireplace, kitchen space and much more for outdoor living and entertaining. Be sure to watch the video above to check it out!

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Welcome back to the third part of my big Outdoor Kitchen build, which is roofing!

Last week, we showed you how to frame the deck roof and this week we are adding the roofing underlayment and panels. We also show how to build and water-proof a chimney cricket to keep water from accumulating by the chimney. And stay tuned up next I’ll show how we built the fireplace.

• Find Part 1 (Building The Deck) here.
• Find Part 2 (Framing A Roof) here.

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Stealth Mask
• Halcyon Total Boat Varnish
• Greenworks Leaf Blower
• Ondura Roofing
• Onduline Flashing Tape
• Onduvilla Flashing Band
• Crescent 1/4” Bit Set
• Crescent Chalk Line
• Diablo Combo Blade
• Decked

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

In my last video, you saw me build a giant deck. In this video, we’re framing and building a large Hip Roof to cover the deck and turn it into my Outdoor Kitchen!

Watch the video above to see how we framed the gorgeous hip roof. And stay tuned as the next video will cover adding the roofing panels.

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Decked
• Triton Circular Saw
• Triton Mini Planer
• StealthMask Respirator
• Reciprocating Saw
• Diablo Demo Demon
• Diablo Spade Bits
• Lifting Straps

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Welcome to the first part of my big 24′ x 34′ Outdoor Kitchen build! In this video, I’ll show you how we framed a large floating deck on concrete pillars. And then how we decked it with the Trex Transcend composite decking system.

At the end of this series, I’ll have a fully functional outdoor kitchen, with a fireplace, kitchen space and much more for outdoor living and entertaining. Be sure to watch the video above to check it out!

The next video will cover framing the roof. You can see that here.

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Crescent Chalk Line
• Stealth Mask Respirator
• Triton Mini Planer
• Fence Armor Sleeve
• Greenworks Leaf Blower
• Greenworks 60v Chainsaw
• Greenworks Leaf Blower
• Decked Truck Drawer System
• Tough Built Saw Horse
• Tough Built Knee Pads
• Simpson Strong Tie Joist Hanger
• Palm Nailer
• Triton Mini Planer
• Post Saver Sleeve
• Trex Transcend Composite Decking
• Trex Hidden Fasteners
• Trex Fastener Installation Tool
• Trex Diablo Blade

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Thinking about lawn care tips and tricks? Check out this lawn care project where I walk you through all of my ideas, and show you how I manage mine!

I love yard work! And now that it is Spring, I can always be found out in the yard doing something to improve it. Here is a collection of some of my favorite yard tips and tricks.

Things I Used in This Lawn Care Tips Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Greenworks 60V Mower
• Greenworks 60V String Trimmer
• Greenworks Leaf Blower
• Dry Lube
• Zip Ties
• Kujo Yard Shoes (click to get 10% off and free shipping!)

Be sure to check out the video above to see the build! I’ll see you on whatever I’m building next.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Thinking about building your own DIY Glider Bench? Check out this project where I take you through my build step-by-step! + DIY plans to help you!

It is finally spring time and that means it is perfect weather for some front porch sittin’! This week, I made myself an outdoor glider bench so I have a smooth and comfortable seating option on these beautiful mornings and evenings.

Bench Glider Plans

$9.99

Shop now

Bench Glider Templates

$9.99 – $19.99

Shop now

Materials I Used to Build This Outdoor Glider Bench:

• Wood
• Outdoor Bench Glider Plan
• Outdoor Bench Glider Template
• Bolts
• Nuts
• Wood Glue
• Brad Nailer
• Band Saw
• Table Saw
• Clamps
• Finish

Step 1: Cutting out the Glider Bench Pieces

The first thing I did was take my wood materials to my table saw to cut out pieces. I put together a cut list before getting started on this project so I was able to cut everything at one time. I did all my straight pieces first and then move to the curved pieces. For this I used a set of templates that I put on top of my board then trace.

Step 2: Detail Work! Rounding Out the Edges of the Cut Outs

Form there I took the part to the band saw and cut it out. I used my Triton Oscillating Belt Sander to round out the ends. You can also use a flush trim bit at the router table to get the same shape. I took all my parts to my router table. Using a router bit I soften out all the edges. This is a subtle detail but it really makes a difference in the end.

Step 3: Assembling the Base

I started by grabbing the footer and two vertical upright parts and attached them together. I’m using a spoil board under my piece so that I can drill directly through my two pieces without drilling into my bench. It also prevents tear out on the back side.

After drilling the first hole I placed a carriage bolt to keep the holes aligned. I also used a speed squarer to square up the two components. I repeated the same process when attaching the back parts to the seat parts.  Each set requires two bolts and while you can drill both in the same time its best practice to drill a hole then place a bolt, then drill the second hole and place the second bolt. This keeps things from becoming misaligned.

Tip: Galvanized vs. Non-Galvanized

I’m using galvanized everything to prevent any of the nuts and bolts from rusting out since this will be used outside. However I couldn’t find galvanized lock nuts. I like these because they have a layer inside to keep the nut from backing out over time. With this project being in motion you definitely want something to lock. To make sure the pieces don’t back out over time, I’m using a thread locker made by DAPP. Use a bit of gel on the thread of the bolt before tightening down to keep it from moving.

Step 4: Joining the Back Piece With the Seat Piece

I can join these parts together to make up the bones of the glider bench. I spaced the bench back assembly out evenly across the footer and started attaching. I attached each one it’s two exterior grade screws checking with a speed squarer as I went along to make sure things were nice and square before attaching.

I also pre-drilled here as I’m going into the end grate. Pre-drilling helps prevent the wood from splitting.

Step 5: Attaching the Slats for the Glider Bench Seat

Next was to attach the slats. To make sure the front was square as I was building, I started with the back most slat. I used a measuring tape to make sure the parts spaced the same amount as they were in the front. I then worked my way to the front, not having to worry about squareness because everything is already locked into place.

To make attaching these slats quick I’m using two spacer and a Brad Nailer instead of screws. Screws work great, they are just more time consuming. If you go with them then be sure to predrill to prevent splitting the back piece. If you go with nails then just be sure to use galvanized nails. If you don’t, the nails will rust out very quickly.

Step 6: Giving the Glider Bench Arms

Something to pay attention to here is getting the arms attached level to the body. First, I throw in two screws to attach the front of the arms to the vertical upright piece. Now I can place a level on the arm to see the angle it will need to be attached to on the back. That completes the top portion of the glider bench!

Step 7: Building the Base

After cutting my pieces to their needed length, I rounded over the bottom edge of each leg. I traced a curve from something round, in this case a roll of duct tape, then cut it out over at the band saw. I cleaned up the cut wit my Triton Oscillating Belt Sander. To attach it, I first applied some outdoor wood glue to the front side, then clamped it in place. Here, you’ll see me use a level to make sure the piece was plumb before attaching it with screws.

I repeated this with the back leg. However this isn’t plumb so I made sure the angle on the top was seated flush with the underside of the arm. After having one side complete, I sit the glider bench across my armor table so that I can access the other side and repeat the process. These four legs are what will span down to the base so that it glides.

Step 8: Assembling the Framework for the Legs

Next, I got to building the frame work that will attach to the legs. I started with the bottom of the base. Since this will be in contact with the ground, I drew a cutout portion to create two feet for it. I used the bandsaw to cut it out, then headed over to my Triton Spindle Sander to clean up the corners.

Sanding tip: Spindle Sander vs. Oscillating Sander

The oscillating sander can be turned into a spindle sander, however I keep them separate so each is dedicated to their own task.

Step 9: Creating the Glider Bench Base Using a Mortise and Tenon Method!

The assembly for the base will be very simple. It’s just four parts, essentially making a box. There are plenty of ways to join these parts together to make them strong and supportive, but I’m going to be using a Mortise and Tenon method called “bead lock” from Rockler.

When I laid out my parts, I used a speed square to draw a line from one part to the next. This way I can take one part at a time and clamp it in my Trition Superjaws. This device will hold down the piece so that I can line up it’s centerline to my pencil line. Once I clamped it down I’m ready to drill in the three holes at the top using the guides.

After that’s done I can unlock two knobs on the front and slide the guide over to position b. This halfway closes one of the holes and allows me to drill in the far left two. After I remove it from the jig you can see I’m left with the receiving mortise.

Once I repeated the process on all my remaining parts, I was able to apply wood glue into the mortise and hammer in a Rockler provided Tenon. Now, the parts will fit together like a puzzle piece.

Tip: Mortise and Tenon method

Rockler makes the jig I used that attaches to your wood and allows you to drill in a series of holes. They also make a tenon that fits into these holes and gives you the connection between two parts.

Step 10: Assembling the Base of the Glider Bench

Finishing off some details for the glider bench base, I rounded over the edges to soften the look then I marked off the location of a kneaded front stretcher. For strength I decided to dado this in. I marked the location off with the speed square then used a straight bit in my router to cut it in. I have marked this location in the plans in case you want to build your own.

I used more wood glue to attach this stretcher. Using a brad nail on each side to pin the stretcher in place so that I can have both hands free to pre-drill and drive in a few screws to attach it. With that in place I flipped the unit on it’s back to make attaching the back stretcher a little easier. After applying the glue I again used a few screws. Next I drilled in holes for the glider hardware.

Step 11: Adding the Gliding Feature to the Glider Bench

My mom decided to drop off some lunch and helped me out with the last few steps of assembling the glider bench. Hi Mom!

The hardware used to turn this into a glider is specific glider hardware that can be found at Rockler. You drill four holes then attach with a bolt. I again used dap’s thread locker then a ratchet wrench to tighten down on the nut and washer. Now we get to join the glider bench base and the seat assembly together.

Step 12: Joining the Glider Bench Base and the Glider Bench Seat Assembly

I set the base on the floor of my shop, then slowly lowered the glider bench base on top. In order for the bench hardware to work, all four bolts need to be attached into the corresponding holes in the legs. After pushing the bolts into the holes, I secured them with a nut and washer. Voila! We’ve finished our outdoor bench that glides! I put a stain over mine, but this is optional. Feel free to personalize it however you’d like!

Things I Used in This DIY Glider Bench Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Wilker Do’s DIY Plywood Workbench Plans
• Triton Planer
• Triton Oscillating Belt Sander
• Triton Spindle Sander
• Triton Superjaws
• StealthMask Respirator
• Armor Mobile Workbench
• Armor Dog Peg Clamps
• DAP Thread Locker
• Brad Nailer
• Rockler Beadlock Kit
• Rockler Glider Hardware
• Total Boat Halycon Finish

Bench Glider Plans

$9.99

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Bench Glider Templates

$9.99 – $19.99

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(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Thinking about putting in your own DIY outdoor lighting? Check out this project where I added a light AND an outdoor outlet to the yard!

In this video tutorial I am showing you how to get power to anywhere in your yard! This is super helpful when you need lighting or an outlet. A homeowner can DIY this job and safely bury the wire along the way. I also show how to make a small lamp post with lighting, a useful exterior outlet and finish it off with a nice Fence Armor post cap and finial. Check out the video for details!

Things I Used in This DIY Outdoor Lighting Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Crescent 2in1 Pliers
• ToughBuilt Tool Belt
• Fence Armor PostSaver Sleeve
• Fence Armor Post Cap
• Fence Armor Finials
• Fence Post Mix

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

In this video I am having a lot of fun because I’m showing you the ins and outs of my new bandsaw mill.

This Logosol B1001 Mill can handle up to a 27.5″ diameter log. You would think, as I did at that time, that my mill lineup was already complete. However, I found myself in situations where there were still plenty of logs under that 27.5 inch capacity, but then a few that i was having to leave behind because they were over it. This led me to look at a bandsaw mill that had a larger cut capacity.

This one is 36 inches but also gives me the option of portability. This Logasol mill has a trailer package so when i get a call on trees, I now either have the option of going to grab the logs and bringing them back to the Wood Shed to slab up, or I can deploy the chainsaw mill and bandsaw mill to slab the trees on site.

Check out the video above to see everything this awesome mill has to offer.

Check out The Hill Country Woodshed if you are interested in a mill for yourself!

Find out more about Logosol here.

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Stealth Mask Respirator

Trying to figure out how to build a staircase? Check out this project where I walk you through the whole process of building a new set of stairs at my house!

I recently tackled a project that has been on my to do list for a while. I needed to tear down and rebuild a two story staircase at my house. While the staircase was still standing, it was in rough shape and is becoming dangerous. Whoever built it didn’t use treated material and my boot has gone through more than one tread.

While I did replace the worst of them, the stringers are also so rotten that a screw breaks it apart more instead of holding. It was also put together with non ring shank nails which are backing themselves out now. With all the problems, it’s easiest if I just knock it down and start over. I’ve now built lets see….1, 2, 3….sets of stairs. So lets go ahead and put number 4 on the books!

Check out the video above to see the whole process!

Things I Used in This How To Build A Staircase Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Fence Armor
• Simpson Strong Tie
• Stain and Seal
• Post Saver Sleeve
• Triton Circular Saw
• Clamps
• Palm Nailer
• Simpson Joist Hangers
• Simpson Stringer Hangers
• Triton Jigsaw
• Fence Armor Post Protectors

Check Out My Other DIY Stairs Project Videos Here:

• Large Outdoor Staircase Video
• Small Outdoor Staircase Video
• Curved Staircase Video

Informational YouTube video on laying out stair stringers.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Wondering how to choose gas vs battery chainsaws? Check out this comprehensive chainsaw comparison to help you decide. Today I’m going to be talking about the difference between gas-powered and battery-powered chain saws.

Things I Used in This Chainsaw Comparison Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Battery Chainsaw
• Gas Chainsaw
• Bar Oil
• 2 Stroke Fluid
• Chaps
• Helmet

I just started using a STIHL battery-powered saw, and I’m very impressed with how it compares to my gas-powered units. There are a few situations where I still get out the gas unit, but this battery-powered one is my new go-to in 90% of my tasks.

Let’s get into it.

The first thing to compare right off the bat is the weight. When using gas, I typically run this MS 211 C-BE unit and it weighs in at 10 pounds. This battery-operated MSA 220 C-B weighs in at 11.2 pounds (with battery).

When starting a gas unit you typically have a primer bulb, put it in choke, pull the starter cord, wait for it to turn over, then flip it to “on” and with one or two more pulls,  you’re ready to go.

With a battery, you release the chain brake and squeeze the trigger. That’s it. As long as you have a charged battery, the saw will literally be ready to go whenever you are, whether it be as soon as you bring it home from the dealer or after a long winter of not being used. 

The next thing worth comparing is the noise. I can spend hours stomping around my property doing chainsaw comparison work and have just gotten used to the constant rumbling of the engine and the smell of gas. It’s definitely a different experience to pick up the battery-powered saw for use but then have dead silence just a few seconds after I take my finger off the trigger. 

Typically when I’m clearing land, I’ll pick a spot to work on and do a bunch of cutting, then I’ll pause and take time to pull all the down brush out of my way so I can access the next spot.

I normally leave my gas unit idling during this time because it’s a pain to turn off, then turn it back on in five minutes. But with a battery saw, I don’t have to deal with that dilemma to decide if my cutting break is worth turning off my saw. I set it down, then whenever I’m ready, it is, too. 

It’s also very convenient if you’re working with somebody. It’s very easy to pause work and have a conversation without having to get close enough or yell loud enough to talk over engines.

Battery-operated saws still require bar oil, but other than that, no other fluid is needed. That means you can skip mixing oil and gas together or packing your premade mixture.

It also means there are fewer parts to maintain. I don’t know if you’ve ever had to clean the carburetor out because it got gummed up due to lack of maintenance or incorrect storage, but all of that is eliminated since there isn’t a carb on battery-operated saws.

Now let’s talk about the big one: Power. Can a battery-operated saw hold up to jobs that a gas-powered saw can? Let’s do a side-by-side test.

For the test, I first started by cutting some 3-6” diameter branches. 

I then cut some 24” logs.

Both saws perform about the same on smaller limbs and branches and while the battery-operated saw didn’t cut the hard pecan quite as quick, it still didn’t struggle with it. But is that spaced few seconds really needed for you? For me, it’s about a job to job evaluation. Do I need to cut two downed pecans or 15? I definitely still have jobs where I reach for my gas unit, but I am finding it less and less since battery-operated saws have become much more equivalent while also having some clear winning features.

A lot of what I do around my property is clear the underbrush or small growing cedars from under my oaks. With that, my battery-operated saw has the power I need so the only thing I manage is run time. If I plan to put in 6-8 hours of cutting, I can certainly use my gas saw for the day and not think about batteries. But if I want the benefits of my battery saw, then I bring two batteries out with me and always have one on the charger. My shop is just through the woods and when I need to place a battery to charge, it’s also a great time to take a much needed break.

Batteries might seem like an expense, but just like any other tool, investing in a platform can also be looked at as a plus. It’s my goal to switch as much of my outdoor power equipment over to battery, including my string trimmer and my leaf blower, so already having the batteries around means they can go towards whatever yard task I set out to do that day. Plus, don’t forget the positive it has on the environment by reducing our carbon footprint.

Conclusion: I think there is definitely a place for both of these units, but with the advancements of battery technology, it is capable of handling the vast majority of the jobs I’m tackling. So if you are looking to get into chain saws, at least consider the battery-operated saws as contenders because I would be willing to bet, they’ll surprise you.

Big thank you to STIHL for supporting my channel and working with me on this video.

Wondering how to build curved stairs? Check out this DIY project where I show you the easiest way to build your own curved stairs!

Normal stair cases are tricky, curved stair cases are a different level of tricky.

In this video I’ll show you a unique and easy method we used to build this set of curved stairs to go up to the floating tree deck that I built. Be sure to check out that build if you haven’t already seen it.

First off, big thank you to my friend Tim Uhler (Awesome Framers) who told me about this method of stair building.

Unlike a normal set of stairs where you place the stringers first then set the risers and treads, this method calls for the stairs to be build individually first, then placed on stilts, then connected to one another. That might not make sense right now, but it will soon.

I first started working on cutting all the risers while Jacob started attaching the header to the deck. By the way, if you missed the deck build, check it out here.

Since we’re building this staircase outside and on uneven ground, Jacob built this temporary platform to give us a level working surface for constructing. Then he also already poured the concrete footers where the bottom of the stairs will end. 

I was ready to start putting together stairs after getting the risers knocked out. 

For assembling, the order is a 2×4 is placed on the 2×12 riser, this will later support the next steps’s sub tread.

Then the sub tread is connected to this face of the 2×12. Construction adhesive is used before attaching each piece. 

After repeating to make up all 14 stairs, we could start adding stilts to the underside. These will be just temporary members so no construction adhesive was used, just driving in two screws per board. Then we were able to start standing it up, and this is where you’ll see how it comes together.

The sub tread of the step being stood up, connects into the 2×4 of the step ahead of it…of in this first steps case, the header on the deck. Then you can repeat with each step following until they are all up in the air and connected. 

For attaching, we would lay down a bead of construction adhesive on the 2×4 then drive in a few screws once the sub tread was in place. Since Jacob had a model of this entire case before we ever got started, he was able to create a layout on the platform showing where each 2×4 post should be landing.

This allowed us to quickly set them up, move them into position, screw down the top, then also throw in a screw at the base to keep it from moving. It was amazing just how quickly all of this came together, I mean in less than an hour we had a staircase we could use to get to the top of the deck. 

Now before you start leaving me comments about how nothing about this is correct, we aren’t done. 

With the steps in place, next we started building the stringers, or what will take the place of the stringers. Instead of 2x12s that you typically see stringers made out of, this unique staircase is using half inch pressure treated plywood laminated together to build up to the thickness needed.

Instead of using a full sheet o plywood we ripped down some strips to make holding it up in place easier. We first set some clamps and made sure that the top was overhanging all of the steps. We applied construction adhesive to all of the 2x12s, 2x4s, and 1/2” sub treads…trying not to get it on the 2×4 silt as we will want to remove that later…..then used screws to attach this first layer. 

Before putting on the bottom piece of the first layer we used she DAP clear caulking to seal the end plywood that will be in contact with the ground. This way it won’t be able to soak up moisture. We attached it the same as the first. 

Once that was fully attached next we trimmed it up to the stairs. This was done with a combination of a jigasaw and router.

A jigsaw to first remove the bulk waste which makes the router bit in the next step not have to work so hard. Then a flush trim bit in a router to get it all nice and flush. It creates a mess, but it’s a quick way to get it done. 

After repeating that same process on the inside of the stairs, we next started adding the treads on top of the sub treads. This is a piece of 3/4” material, again all of this material is pressure treated.

This step is very quick as we just needed to lay down some construction adhesive to the sub tread then set the top tread in place, making sure it was lined up flush, then screw it down.

And here, Jacob has a good trick. To make driving in screws easier, you can use a hammer to tap them into place first. This gets rid of the wobbling around phase when driving in screws.

Oh yes, we also made sure to blow off the step before laying down construction adhesive so the tread would lay nice and flat. 

By the way, those circles in the center of the steps are weep holes. They will give any moisture a way to escape instead of getting stuck. It’s really cool to feel the entire structure get stiffer and stiffer the further we build. 

After reinforcing the steps, next was to add more plywood to the sides. We started off on the inside of the stairs as the concave surface would be the most difficult.

Before moving to the outside to laminate with plywood, we stopped to tape the stairs. And honestly, it would have been better to tape before laminating the inside, because then the tape could just run off both sides. The tape is a time consuming step, but it will drastically extend the lift of the material, so it is worth it. It creates a barrier between the wood and moisture.

Next we moved to the outside and this side is much easier to film and show off the process.

We started by laying down a qood amount of construction adhesive to layer one, then adding on layer two. The most important thing to pay attention to in this step is to get a good connection with no gaps so that these individual layers become one solid piece, giving the support needed.

It’s kind of tricky because both ends require two different cuts. So we would cut one end and start attaching it. Then we would hold up the next board and scribe it to make finding the angle much easier.

Utilizing clamps at the start to make sure it sucked down flush to the curve. With this being a convex curve, it was much easier to bend and shape. To hold it down permanently, we would locate the 2×12 riser of each step and throw in a few screws. 

With the staircase being the length it is, this process took two pieces of plywood to cover the entire length. No problem, we just made sure the seam butted up nice and tight when attaching the second piece.

After layer two, we repeated with layer three, and then eventually, layer four. Ha, Jacob says this is the biggest paper mache project he’s ever worked on. 

Don’t pay any attention to the bottom, all of that will be shaped and cut off later on. Right now, only the top surface matters as it’s the one staying forever. 

Next up was to take off the 2×4 stilts. Since we only put these in with two screws from the front of the stairs, we simply had to unscrew them from the front of each one.

Even though we were mindful on where we placed adhesive, some still needed a little bump of persuasion to let loose. Haha. My goodness, it’s incredible how solid they felt. Very little defection was felt even when full blown jumping up and down on them. 

Ok, lets pretty it up some. This was done by shaping the plywood and can of course be done in any manner of shapes and ways.

I did subtle curves to make it a little unique then cut along my line with a jigsaw. After the cut, this can be sanded to clean it up a bit then called finish. Well for that portion anyways. 

For the steps, they still needed to be decked. We’re once again using the Trex composite decking in order to match the deck’s decking.

Wow, what a transformation. Also, just way more convenient than moving a ladder into place every time we want to sit and enjoy the deck. 

Of course it till needs a coat of paint, no I don’t plan on leaving the pressure treated plywood as is…but the material still needs to dry out a few more weeks before it will accept a coat of paint, so stay tuned on the final look of it and the underside of the deck. 

In the future we will be adding unique railing to not only the staircase but also the deck itself.

I really hope you enjoyed watching this project come together. It has certainly been one of my all time favorite builds and a heck of a lot of work. I’ll see you on my next project. 

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Now that the framing of the substructure of this deck is done, we needed to work on the rim joist. This is the piece that attaches to the front of each tail of the joists, connecting them together and creating those graceful but difficult curves.

If you missed the first part of this build, be sure and check that out HERE

We did a lot of brainstorming on how to get this curved rim joist.

We went with our plan A which was to use a 2×12 on all of the straight sections, then 1/2” plywood on the curves. The hope was that the 1/2” ply would be malleable enough to make the curves without snapping. Then we would build up the thickness needed by laminating three layers of plywood together. 

Let me kill the suspense and tell you that it worked like a charm and while it was a very time consuming process, it was very satisfying and man, what a transformation it made to the deck. 

We would start by cutting full sheets of plywood into strips, utilizing the top half of our scaffolding as a large workbench and outfield table.

Actually, this was often used as a walking platform when working on this side of the deck as well. After cutting strips, we would pick out and use the ones with the clearest grain. We noticed that any strips with crazy grain orientation would want to snap under the pressure. Sure you could always kerf the back, but instead we stuck with clear grain pieces and didn’t have a single one fail on the install. 

The first layer of the strip would then need to be cut to the needed length so it would end at the center of a joist. Then to start attaching it, each joist tail was coated in a quick drying construction adhesive.

Then the start of the board would be attached with a few screws and a heavy duty metal clamp, while the majority of the board would be held out straight.

Now deploy all the other clamps you have and then some, to start making the curve. As one of us would make the bend, the other would be setting clamps to keep it bent or driving in screws if that was enough to hold it. 

I don’t know if you can make it out but the straight 2×12 has a half lap on both ends and you’ll see how this comes into play in just a few minutes.

The first layer of 1/2” ply butted up against this half lap on this side, then ended half on a joist at the other end. Which is where another first layer started.

Once the entire curve had the first layer established, now we repeated the process but with layer two. This is where the plywood strip would start on top of the half lap of the straight 2×12 which helps join things together by tying it in.

On this layer we tried to leave the strips as long as we could, only cutting something shorter if the seam lined up too close with the lower layer seam.

After getting the entire 2nd layer attached with construction adhesive, clamps, and screws, we repeated for a third time on layer three. Again being mindful to stagger the seams. We were also really diligent about looking for gaps. The larger clamps did a great job at holding the big spaces closed but some areas required quite a few smaller clamps in between to really close all the gaps. So after getting the bulk curve in place, we doubled checked both the top and bottom seam to see where it needed extra persuasion. 

After getting a curve done, Jake went back and added in a few bolts to the connection between the 2×12 straight rim and the laminated ply rim. 

We started off with the tightest and hardness radius then moved out from there. While everything else was more simple with the curves, it was still a pretty time consuming process. It took us two days to get them all set. None of us minded though, I honestly was fascinated by the process and was also extremely giddy about the drastic change it was making to the deck. 

You know the great thing about building a deck in the trees? I’ll always be able to see the intricate and beautiful framing of it. The framing of a structure is one of my favorite things to look at so I’m so happy I have a way of being able to see this one.

With the rim joist done, it’s onto the next major step of the project which is covering up the substructure with decking. The first thing in this step was to first apply a protective tape to the top side of every single surface of the framing. If you’ve ever had to demo a deck before, you’ll know that the top side of the framing is typically rotten even when the rest of the board isn’t, this tape is designed to protect the tops of all of these members by acting as a barrier between wood and moisture.

So while this step is a little time consuming, it will drastically effect the life span of your structure. I’m using the Trex Protect tape Beam and Joist Tape which is a self-adhesive butyl tape that won’t bleed, dry out quickly, or curl up like many asphalt based tapes. 

After that step, it was right into attaching the deck boards. One of the challenges here was getting material staged up on the deck for us to pull from. We ended up utilizing the fork lift again to lift a big stack of material up into the air, then a few carefully placed walk boards to allow us to assembly line unload and slide over to the start position.

For this project I am very excited to be working with Trex, using their Transcend decking line which is a composite decking material.

One main reason for going with a composite is it’s superior durability. unlike wood, and even many PVC options, high-performance Trex decking resists fading, scratching and mold – and won’t rot, warp, crack or splinter. Another huge high point is high-performance Trex composites retain their beauty for decades with minimal upkeep meaning I won’t ever have to sand and refinish this massive surface. 

I didn’t want the deck to be all one color and pattern. To give it some visual interest we placed a dark stripe right on top of the three joists sistered together then used a lighter color on the rest. This stripe was our starting point for the decking. The boards aren’t long enough to span from the front all the way to the back so we were again conscious and choosy about where we landed the seams on the boards we put down. Not only staggering them but also making sure the butt joint would be on a wide support for both boards coming together. 

With the stripe down we picked up the lighter color and started working to the left. Working around the trees isn’t difficult but it is going to be time consuming so to start off we actually started laying down the deck boards that would be a continuous run from the center stripe all the way off the deck. This meant we work in front of the back tree all the way until the back of the front most tree. 

You can see we’re placing full boards down then letting the free end run wild. This is another time the accurate 3D model of the project was handy: When ordering the deck boards, we already knew the dimension of this area and could order boards in different lengths instead of just guessing or working with one size and having a ton of waste. 

I’ll tell you the best part about this step….creating a super easy walking surface! After a week and a half of having to move a ladder anywhere we wanted to go, or balancing and picking a small path, it was a giant relief to have a solid and large area to not only walk but to also work from. 

At the end of day 1 on decking, we only made it this far….but remember the first day of a new process is always the most time consuming. We finished the day by using a circular saw to cut the majority of the wild end off so it doesn’t strain the portion of the board that is attached to the deck. 

Day 2 on decking, we covered much more ground, largely because we had our system figured out. What we worked out is a two man team works best. One person could set the new deck board in place and do all the pre drilling, while a second person followed behind actually driving in the screws. 

For a securing method, we’re using the hidden fastener approach meaning the screws go into the side of the deck boards instead of on the face where you’ll be able to see them.

I love the way the boards look without screws showing everywhere, it’s a small thing but gives the finished appearance a super clean and tidy look. To accomplish this look, we’re using an incredibly handy deck jig made by Kreg specifically for this hidden fastner approach.

It’s very unassuming because it’s small and lightweight, but this simple jig takes out almost all of the thought work in laying down the deck boards. The face of the jig is covered in useful alignment tools for getting the jig in line with the joist, whether it be straight or at an angle. A pre drill bit that has a collar on it is included so that when you set the jig in place to drill a hole, the collar will regulate the depth, not allowing you to go too shallow or deep. 

Next you can drop a screw into the same port and use the driver bit (also with a collar) to set the screw. The collar once again now allowing you to go over or under tighten. After that you can repeat with the next hole. 

Something I didn’t realize until tackling this project is composite decking expands and contracts just like real wood does. With that, a 1/4” space needs to be left in between each board to allow for movement. The Kreg Deck Jig comes with three spacers to make this job go quicker. It isn’t crucial that the spacers be placed when predrilling the holes, but it is when the screws start going in. If they aren’t set then the screw will push the board over, messing up the gap.  

Once we got to the second side of the deck we really started flying. We again started in the center of the deck so we could lay down a ton of boards without having to work around the trees. Jake and David both took a side, working out from the middle, and I would hop back and forth to do the predrilling so that we could all keep moving. 

Something else that made this job go quick is having a good set of knee pads. You’ll see that I am able to easily slide from joist to joist, moving the Kreg jig along to very quickly knock out the pre drilling. This was my first time trying out these ToughBuilt knee pads and I was beyond impressed.

They might look a little intense but they are extremely comfortable and are designed with full mobility in mind. t’s not only easy and comfortable to go from standing to kneeling but the design also keeps the pads square on the knee and won’t allow it to side shift. 

Ok lets talk about working around these trees. Again, it’s important to leave room for movement here. There is 7” around the tree on the framing for growth, but on the decking we ultimately wanted to leave 2”. This will be for when the wind blows and the trees moves a bit. Should the tree get closer to the edge of any deck surface in the future then they can always be trimmed back some. For now though, we would just get close then do all the final trimming and sizing at the very end.

So each board would get roughly cut with a jig saw so all the boards around the tree could be laid down and attached. Once the tree was fully covered on all side then the final cut would happen.

Jake held onto a putty knife that is exactly 2” wide to make this step easier. He would run the putty knife around the base of the tree and mark off with a sharpie where 2” fell, then use a jigsaw to cut it out. 

It took us 2.5 days to complete the decking and man, it was a wonderful feeling getting to the very end. We were all very smoked but extremely satisfied. 

Of course we weren’t quite done yet. At this point all the ends are still left running wild and need to be cut flush to the rim joist. I planned on doing this with a flush trim bit in a router but to ease the amount of work the bit had to do, we first used a combination of a jigsaw or circular saw to trim the bulk of the overhang. Then came back with a router to square it up nice and neat. Whew, look at those curves coming out.

Ahhhh, oh my goodness. What a tremendous amount of work but it’s soo cool and also so beautiful.

I love the overall high definition wood grain patterns of this Trex decking with the Havana Gold boards having a warm, golden color while Spiced Rum offers an appealing contrast with its earthy umber tones. It’s very reassuring after all this work that it’s stunning vibrancy will remain unchanged for years. 

Ok hang in there with me, it might seem like a good stopping point but there was one more major step to complete this portion of the build, Fasca. This is the board that will cover up the face of the wooden rim joist. So more curves.

Thankfully this Trex composite decking is flexible and didn’t have any issues with the job. The Trex facia boards might look the same but they are actually slightly thinner than the deck boards. For color I went with the darker color of the stripe on the deck which is Spiced Rum. This way when looking at the deck from the top, the Havana Gold will be outlined with the darker color. 

These boards are installed very easily, by simply holding the board in place then screwing it into the rim joist. Before getting started we first went around the deck and painted a small portion a dark color. This is because it will take two facia boards stacked on top of each other to make up the height of the rim joist. So instead of having the pressure treated wood showing through, this will help camouflage the gap. 

Next we started with the top board. Here we position the board just slightly over flush with the top of the deck. That’s because this board will want to expand and contract up and down and when it contracts I don’t want the deck edge being exposed. David and I actually started off trying to stick with the hidden faster approach even on this facia but noticed that it wasn’t holding the boards down all the way on the tighter curved surfaces. With that, we switched over to face screwing the boards on instead. 

With the deck on, it’s pretty difficult to utilize clamps so instead one of us would hold out the long board so that it would be as straight as possible while the other person would slowly work towards the end screwing it down as they went.

We first went around the entire deck and attached the top boards. This way we could work with full length boards and see where the seams would fall, then also avoid working around the beams for the mean time. 

On the second pass we repeated the process but on the bottom. Here the main thing we looked for is to once again make sure the seams would be staggered. This step of the process went very quick and we were able to complete the entire facia in just a single day.

: ) Would you take a look at that. I can’t express how giddy I was at this point. Also very tired, this was a massive undertaking and I think that’s saying something, coming from me. Ha. 

Next up for Part 3 of the deck will be building a unique set of stairs for it. So if you’re enjoying the build, be sure to stay tuned. 

Things I Used in This Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Nelson Treehouse Tabs
• Sketchup
• Lifting Straps
• Beams
• Kreg Took Deck Jig
• Trex Transcend® Decking (colors Havana Gold & Spiced Rum)
• Trex® Fascia
• Trex Signature® Railing
• Trex® Protect Joist & Beam Tape
• Toughbuilt Knee Pads
• Trex Protect Beam and Joist Tape
• Triton Router

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Let’s Build a Porch Swing Frame

Porch Swing Frame Plans

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I’ve created a set of easy to follow Porch Swing Frame plans to help you build your own porch swing frame.

Materials I Used For This Build:

• Wood
• Screws
• Nails
• Wood Glue
• Circular Saw
• Miter Saw
• Porch Swing Frame Plans
• Miter Saw with Stand

Step 1: Cutting Down the Material for the Porch Swing Frame Legs

I started off by flipping out the wings on my DIY Miter Saw Stand Plans and cutting down the material that will make up the four legs. My Porch Swing Frame Plans provide you with a cut list and material list so you don’t have to spend too much time trying to figure it out.

After cutting the angle on the bottom of the leg I went to the top and used a template to trace the needed profile. After tracing the shape, I used a bandsaw to cut it out. It can be a little tricky to do with a bandsaw because of the length so grab a friend if you’re able to. If not, a jigsaw would also work.

After I got one of the legs fully cut on top and bottom, I used it to trace the different cuts on the remaining three legs then repeated with the cutting process. 

With this project being so large, I find it easiest to work directly on the floor of my shop instead of a workbench. I laid out all four legs in the orientation they would end up, then started marking the locations of the stretchers. These are the pieces that will span from leg to leg. 

Step 2: Preparing the Half Lap Joints for the Porch Swing Frame Legs

To make a cleaner looking finish project and also a stronger connection, I decided to make these a half lap joint. I measured up from the end of the leg on all four then in order to make sure the top profile cut was touching, I pulled out a tape measure to the dimension the bottom splay needed to be then made sure the legs were positioned as far a part as they should be.

Now that the legs are staged in their final position, I grabbed the bottom stretcher and simply set it in place directly onto of the legs. Here, I made sure the board landed on my pencil marks on both legs, then used a pencil to mark the top and also the bottom. This will indicate where the half lap on the legs needs to be cut in. Then before moving the board, I went to the underside…you might need a short pencil to do this….and also marked the stretcher the same which will indicate where the half lap is needed on the stretcher. 

Step 3: Preparing the Half Lap Joints for the Rest of the Porch Swing Frame

Now on to making all of the half laps, to do this you want to set the depth of your saw to half the overall depth of your material. Next, you take out half the material at the connection, on both boards being joined together. If you go the same route as me and use a circular saw, then a quick method is to make multiple cuts with the saw where the material needs to be removed.

Step 4: Cleaning up the Bottom of the Pieces

Next, break out the pieces and clean up the bottom. I typically use a chisel to just bend over the pieces until the majority break off before I chisel up the bottom flush but a claw on a hammer also works. 

After knocking out one, I would set the part back into place on the floor then repeat on the next one. If you want to simplify this project you can skip the half laps and just face screw the stretchers to the inside of the frame. However, using half lap joints does give it a pretty tidy look at the end. If you go the half lap route, I always take my time making the first two cuts to establish the boundary of joint before I zoom away to cut out all the inside cuts. 

I always recommend dry fitting your pieces before applying any glue so this is just a dry run for me, as you can see, the stretcher is still left long at this point.

Step 5: Gluing the Joints Together

Ok, good to go! I hauled the stretcher over to the miter saw to cut it to length. After repeating for the top stretcher I started adding glue and attaching things. 

Since this is an outdoor project be sure to use a water proof wood glue on any joints. I applied a good amount then slipped in the stretchers. Don’t be afraid to use a mallet to work it into position, it should be a tight joint.

I attached things using three outdoor rated screws per connection, however if you wanted an upgrade, two bolts on each location would be a good choice. 

Step 6: Connecting the Two Ends to Create the full Porch Swing Frame

Ok lets stand up the two ends and connect the two. This step is certainly easier to call in a friend for help. After roughly placing both ends, I held one end of the beam in it’s socket while David, who is actually the Manager of The Wood Shed but was doing some work in my shop, moved in the other leg so it could also be craddled. 

Once it’s up there, I climbed up to get it snuggly seated all the way down, then attached it. The thing to pay attention to here is I left the beam a little long so there would be a nice over hang on either end. So I just had to make sure the distance it was overhanging was correct before I drove in the screws. I placed screws in from both sides, but again bolts would be an upgraded option here. I moved over to the other side and repeated. This side didn’t nest down as easily but it’s nothing that a clamp couldn’t solve.

Step 7: Attaching Gussets to the Inside of the Frame for Support

Perfect, moving on. Now to the inside of the frame I first cut then added in some gussets. These are a small part compared to everything else on the build but they are important to keep the frame from being able to rack left and right. I quickly cut both sides to the needed angle then lined them up to be center to the header and the top stretcher. Just a tip for you, I always try and get some screws started in my board when I know I’ll only have one hand available for securing. 

Gussets are added, which adds rigidity so lets add the swing and give it a test run! We aren’t done yet, but I’m too impatient to wait. I added in some eye lets to the top header beam then hung up my swing.

How to Build a Porch Swing

If you’re needing a swing as well then check out my website as I have Porch Swing Templates for making this one here! Over the years I’ve built plenty of these two seaters and also a single person seater option and they make wonderful gifts. 

Step 8: Utilizing Extra Space by Adding End Tables to the Frame

Ok lets add on two more additions. There is some built in wasted space on frames so to put it to some sort of use I built in some little end tables, if you will. because since the swing needs to be inside the gussets on the frame, however long the gussets are is just open space.

I started by making a few more half laps joints in this bottom stretcher then holding a 2×4 in place to trace out the profile. This gave me the area I needed to take away to make a matching arm. I cut the waste out at the bandsaw then glued these pieces into place.

Next I cut up and sanded a few fence pickets to make the top deck boards. After lining them up, I secured them into place with screws. I didn’t glue these in just so I can easily replace them in the future should I need to. 

Honestly, I don’t know if these will be handy or not. My porch swing does come with a cup holder in both arms, which seems to be the most valuable. But who knows, maybe I’ll want to carve a spoon while swinging and be able to use the end table for my tools. Or maybe even a bluetooth speaker for some music. 

Step 9: “Topping” Off the Porch Swing Frame

Ok, last detail! A top cap. This is just for aesthetics but I think gives the frame a more complete look. After sanding down a board, I cut it to length then used a few screws to secure it to the top of the beam. 

Volia, we have a porch swing frame! It can be a bit awkward to move this big heavy thing but it definitely can be done with two people. Or it could be built in place.

I placed mine out in front of my shop so I have a nice place to go take a call or relax at the end of the day. 

If you’re interested in other designs, I also built this different style of porch swing frame a few years ago and it has a roof to provide some shade.

Things I Used In This Porch Swing Frame Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Wilker Do’s DIY Miter Saw Stand
• Circular Saw
• Wilker Do’s Mallet
• Wood Glue
• SuperJaws

I’ll leave you a link to all the things I’ve mentioned below. If you purchase a set of plans or templates from me, then a big thank you for supporting what I do. 

Porch Swing Frame Plans

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• Find Porch Swing Frame Plans here.
• Find Porch Swing Templates here.
• Watch me build the Double Porch Swing here.
• Watch me build the Single Porch Swing here.
• Watch me build the Covered Porch Swing Frame here.
• Find My Bed Swing AND Porch Swing Frame Plans for the Fully Covered Porch Swing here!

Thinking about trying to build your own DIY folding bench? Check out this DIY project where I show you I built my own bench that folds into a table!

Hey watch this….is it a bench, or….is it a table?….or is it a picnic table? I saw one of these convertible benches and just had to make one. I love the concept of having two seating options that can quickly turn into a table. It’s perfect for outdoor spaces like porches. Let me show you how to make this one. 

Things I Used In This DIY Folding Bench Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Armor Workbench
• Triton Thickness Planer
• Wilker Do’s DIY Miter Saw Stand
• Clamps
• Triton SuperJaws
• Armor Pocket Hole Jig

I have Converting Picnic Table DIY Plans for this project here!

Converting Picnic Table Plans

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For this project I’m actually using the left over cedar 2x4s I have on hand from building a fence. So I started by off loading them onto my Armor Tools mobile workbench to get them ready for building.

Personally, when I work with cedar, I always run the boards through my thickness planer first to remove the roughness and save on sanding time later on. 

Then I moved all my boards over to the miter saw to start cutting up into the needed pieces. If you’re interested in a full cut list and material for this project, I have plans linked for you down below. Since I was going off my cut list within my plans, I was able to process all my boards at the same time.

Just a tip for you, I always move my workbench in line with my miter saw stand so I can pull material directly off and into position.

Ok lets start assembling! This bench will be for kiddos so it’s lower to the ground, but know that you can very easily raise it up higher for adults. I grabbed what will be the two legs and the stretcher that connects them and started putting them together. You can see I used a scrap near the bottom to make setting the legs in place, easier.

I applied some outdoor wood glue then once the top was flush all the way across, I used a countersink first then drove in two screws per leg. After attaching the first, I repeated on the second. Then I made another assembly identical to it for the other side. If you’re making both benches at the same time, then you would make four total. 

I set those aside and got started on making the bench seat. For this I laid out four 2x4s on my workbench and lined up the ends flush to each other. I first found center of the bottom board then started attaching a center support member. Again using a counter sink first then driving in screws.

After attaching it to the bottom board, I moved to the top board and repeated. Note, use a speed square to ensure you’re attaching this board on at a 90. Now that I had the top and bottom attached, I cut a spacer to make spacing out the remaining boards equal. Then I went back to the center and attached the center support to these middle two boards as well. 

Now lets attach the two! The ends won’t want to stand up on their own so I grabbed some clamps to increase their footprint and this worked like a champ. At least well enough for me to grab the bottom and set it into place. 

Next was to attached them together. I first applied wood glue then used screws in all the boards to go into the leg assembly. Note: I recommend using a square to ensure the leg is not only square to the bench’s seat but also vertically from the ground.

After checking both planes, I drove in the screws on both sides. Again using my spacer to make sure everything was nice and even. 

Alrighty, now lets add the left and right supports that will join the bottom’s boards together and stiffen up the seat.

Easy enough, moving on to making the top!

Converting Picnic Table Plans

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This is almost the same as the seat except it has more supports in the center of it. So I first laid out my marks according to my Converting Picnic Table DIY Plans then set my boards in place. Once I confirmed that it all looked equal I attached them in place. 

Ok almost done. Now on to the arm assembly.

I first cut the two pieces that make up the bottom and the front of the arm then used my Triton Superjaws to join them together. It’s worth noting that I first only used wood glue and screws here but later came back and added some dowels to reinforce the joint some.

Once that was put together, I added a strap hinge. This is the part that will allow the bench to convert into the table by folding up.

After getting it attached to the bottom of the assembly I moved to the top and added on what will be the back. This is also the part that will allow me to attach this entire unit to the back itself. I set it in place, then used a clamp to secure everything down while I drove in screws. 

Lets set this in place now and figure out where it needs to be set in order to fold forward and work properly….

There isn’t an easy way to set it in place to mark the needed screw locations without it moving. So I ended up cutting a scrap to length so that I could flip the top forward and it hold it in place for me.

This worked beautifully. Once it was forward I was able to use a countersink and screws to attach the hinge in the needed location. 

It isn’t completely done yet but lets try it out! Ha, that’s pretty neat huh? 

Ok, last part that’s needed is the arm! Simple enough. I grabbed a roll of tape off my workbench and used it’s curve to trace a round shape on my 2×4 then cut it out over at the bandsaw.

Now this arm can be attached to the entire assembly.

If you build this, definitely follow my Converting Picnic Table DIY Plans and not what I did here. Remember that I’m building things for the first time when I make videos. So as I build, if I see something that can be refined, I make the change in my plans for the people who want to replicate the project.

So anyways, it would be much better to attach the arm in place before the entire arm assembly gets attached but I made it work by using my Armor Tool pocket hole jig and connecting it that way from underneath. 

Ok lets see how that works. So it’s a bench that can be tucked on a porch but then easily converted into an eating station in just a few seconds. Then if you go through all the steps to build an identical second, they can be move together and turned into a larger seating area that could go back to two benches after all the festivities are done. 

I personally don’t think these will get moved together very often, but the fact it’s another option is pretty cool. Remember if you want to build your own then I have a set of plans over on my website to download. Also if you’re interested in outdoor furniture then check out my Plans section here on my website where I have plans and templates for tons of other projects such as a Folding Adirondack Chair, Rocking Chair, and Porch Swing! 

Converting Picnic Table Plans

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Don’t forget to check out my Converting Picnic Table DIY Plans for this build here!

I really hope you’ve enjoyed this video! I’ll see you on whatever I’m building next.

Thinking about building your own Horizontal Board on Board Fence? Check out this DIY project where I show you the second part – The pickets and trim!

In this second Fence video, I’m going to be showing how to set the top cap, the picketing, the trim and the ground work.

If you missed the first video, you can see that here.

First, lets attach the top cap. This is the board that stretches horizontally from the top of one post to another and is really straight forward to attach.

You can basically throw the board up on top of the post then drive a few screws into the top rail to hold it in place. One thing to pay attention to is to not pull or push the posts out of straight. Again, here is where a string line can be useful.

We once again set it from the very end of the fence to the start but this time, up top. Then we referenced off the string line by 1” to set all the caps in the same line. This top cap will not only help stablize the top of the fence posts by tying them all together, but also looks nice. It has an overhang on the front in order to give the final fence some depth and texture when complete. The amount of overhang can be customized of course, depending on what you think looks nice. 

Now on to the major step of adding pickets.

With a board on board, the goal is to have 100 coverage and no visibility through the panel. The order of operations is I first laid down the back layer of pickets, these are attached directly to the posts.

Then I came back and attached the top layer. These are nailed into the bottom layer of pickets that they overlay on the left, right, and also the center support. Each picket getting two nails per position, per picket.

I went ahead and did up the first bay of the fence completely to make sure my spacing and technique was going to work out. It looked great, in my opinion, so I carried on.

To make things more efficient though, I did the pickets in stages. Meaning I went down the entire length of the fence and first only focus on attaching the back layer of pickets first.

A few things to keep in mind if you’re going to replicate this project: I used a level when placing the top most picket then also would check about every 4th or 5th as I moved down a panel, just to make sure I wasn’t getting off. If you find you are, just cheat it back into level on that picket if its just a small amount, or over the next few pickets if it’s a large amount.  

I made a spacer to the needed gap height and this takes out almost all the thinking on this step. It’s key that the spacer is made from something straight, so I grabbed some plywood and ripped it to the needed height at the tablesaw, then attached a handle.

The gap you go with will be determined on how wide your pickets are, but you want to aim for 3/4” overlap on each side of the picket. This will ensure that as the pickets shrink, no gaps will appear in the fence line. 

As I said before, the pickets are attached with two nails at the three different locations. One thing to note here is to buy stainless steel ring shank nails. The stainless steal will prevent your fence from developing those discolored water marks and the ring shank will prevent them from backing out over time as the wood moves. For attaching them, I think investing in a nailer is 100% worth it. I purchased this one three years ago when I tackled my last fence and it’s more than paid for itself. I can hold down the trigger and just bump the head into the picket for it to shoot a nail. I actually ended up timing myself and it was taking me roughly 4 mins per panel with my process. 

When buying pickets…I went with Western Red Cedar for this entire build. If you’re interested in finding a dealer near you, you can find one HERE!

Not only is the material beautiful and has naturally rot resistant qualities, but these pickets are 3/4” which are considerably thicker than standard. Normally when buying a large bundle of material, there are several pieces that have to be weeded out and discarded but I didn’t have a single board that was unusable in this project, which was a first for me. 

One thing that sped that up though was Jake and Justin (who is my videographer) would stage the needed number of pickets at the different bays. This not only saved me time but also my energy. Even though this is a simple step, it’s the middle of summer and is very draining on the body. But after making it down to the end, it was back to the beginning to start phase two of picketing. 

Now this stage was actually the quickest of the entire project because Jake came up with a very clever jig to speed it up drastically. He grabbed a 2×4 and made some steps, or some shelves I guess, at the needed distance of the pickets.

This jig could be clamped into position on the left of each bay where the small shelf was resting on the center of the bottom layer picket so that the top layer picket could simply be set on top, manually positioned left or right, then nailed down. Jake could feed in the pickets while I attached my side of things, then before moving the jig, Jake could go through and quickly secure his side. Then the jig could be unclamped then moved down to the next seam and repeated. This took took the time down from 4 mins per bay to under 1 min, so it’s certainly worth the time to make it. 

Something I chose to do along the very bottom of the fence is to make the very last picket a treated board instead of cedar. So when placing the top layer of pickets, you can only work down so far or you’ll cover up where the treated board needs to be placed. So after getting all the top layer pickets attached, we next went back to the bottom of each bay and first added on the treated board, then attached what will be the very last top layer picket.

Oh, and just a note here…we used a 12’ treated board here which spans two bays instead of a single. Only reason for this is because 6 foot treated boards don’t exist and an 8’ board would create a bunch of waste. The boards that will be the most susceptible to rot are the ones in either direct contact to the ground or closest contact. So by using a treated board at the very bottom, I’m hoping that will extend it’s lifespan. 

Man, that was a ton of work. We are getting close to finishing up so hang tight.

Next up is trim, which this style has very little of. It’s really just these seams where the pickets butt up to one another. A vertical 1x board is attached to each one which not only covers up the but joint but also the dog ear of each picket. It’s a simple but drastic change.

The bottom can be lined up with the post, which you can see I do by peaking at the bottom of the fence. After shooting in one nail, Jake plumbed it up at the top then it could be attached all the way up before moving the whole operation over to the next seam and repeating. 

Now on my last fence I actually purchased pre stained pickets and I liked this because the entire board was coated and it also saved time when installing. However, I wasn’t able to find prestained pickets this go around so instead I got out the airless sprayer and applied three coats of an oil based Simi translucent cedar colored stain to each side of the fence.

I do recommend coating both sides of the fence if possible. Even though Western Red Cedar is naturally rot resistant, all these additional things….like adding a stain or keeping it from contacting the ground, is only going to add more time to it.

Don’t get me wrong, a fence is a big project because of it’s scale, but if you break it down into steps, everything is actually quite easy. I would recommend not doing it in the middle of summer to make it even easier. However, whenever you do it, if a fence is on your to do list then there is a lot of money to be saved by tackling it yourself. Plus, it’s a wonderful feeling after it’s completely to have people ask “who built your fence?” And you get to answer “I did”.

Again, in case you missed part 1 of this build, you can find that here.

I’ve also built a vertical board on board fence that I’ve also built here.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

In this video I’m getting started building a Board on Board Horizontal Fence, here in my new commercial space, The Wood Shed. I actually broke this video into two parts because there is so much information to deliver. So if a fence is on your to-do list, I hope this helps you out.

Be sure and check out the video above to see all about how I built it.

You can also check out the previous fence I built, my Vertical Board on Board Fence Build, here.

Things I Used In This Horizontal Fence Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Copper Coat Wood Preservative
• Laser Line Level
• Laser Measure
• Clamps
• Palm Nailer

You can find Part 2 to this project here, where I cover picketing, trim, top cap and finishing out the ground area.

I hope you learn something from this video and feel inspired to go and build your own fence.

See you on the next one.

Thinking about building your own covered porch? Check out this DIY project where I show you how I built this DIY covered porch!

If you missed my last video where my friend Greg and I demoed his existing porch and deck, then rebuilt the deck, then you can find that video HERE. In this video we’re continuing the process by rebuilding the porch. Ok here we go! 

When we were demoing the old porch, the only part we held onto to reuse were these giant white oak posts. Actually, Greg is also a Sawyer and actually milled these posts himself.

We detached them from the rubble then set them in place one by one. Making sure to place these on top of the beams of the deck so the they were on solid footing, then we set two braces in place to get it nice and plumb. 

To start, we would first make sure the post was sitting square to the face of the deck, then using a post level (which reads level on two faces at once) to move the post into plumb.

While one person was reading the levels, the other person would be squeezing down on the clamps to hold it in position. After checking it one last time that nothing had moved, we threw a few screws in the braces. If you don’t have a post level then using a 4’ level on two sides also works. 

After we got the second post set, we next moved to the top and set the header to hold them into position. We could have gone through and first set all the posts, then gone back to do the headers but instead we built the porch by working left to right, and going through all the stages before we moved all the ladders and scaffolding over.

Once the header was in place, then we started throwing up the rafters. 

Well not right away, we first needed to figure out the the angle and depth of the back cut to allow the rafter to sit on the header attached to the shop, then also the front birds mouth cut to allow it to sit on the header spanning the posts. We started off with positioning one rafter in place to get both of these figured out and marked, then we cut it and test fitted it to make sure it worked.

Once it was good to go, we marked this one as our template and used it to duplicate the cuts on all the other needed rafters….which was a lot. 

Greg and I ended up finding a really good system for cutting these out quickly though. He would grab a new board from the raw material stack and set it on the tailgate (which is a wonderful job site workbench by the way).

He would then place the template on top of the new board and get things lined up then he would use the circular saw to cut the end to length, then also make the majority of the cuts for the birds mouth.

While he was doing that, I would make the finish cuts with a jigsaw to end up with clean 90 degree corners.

It’s easier to use a circular saw and just overcut the corners so that you don’t have to use two tools, but that messes with that weakens the connection so since this is something that will be around for a long time, just take the extra time to make it clean. 

After switching sides and both our tools finishing their needed jobs, I would take the completed rafter and set it in place over at the porch while Greg grabbed the next board so we could repeat the entire process. 

I always feel like processing material is a big slow down in the project but the great thing about getting things staged like this is it makes the next step fly. With the rafters all ready to go and lined up, Greg and I could position our ladders and very quickly start installing them. 

Our system here was Greg passing over the tail of the rafter to me while he walked up his ladder. I would position it on the header and secure it in place. I don’t know if you can tell but I have a spacer here to avoid having to pull a tape to set each one. I would use the spacer to determine the location then once I pinned it, I would throw it move it out of the way, finish securing it then use my spacer on setting the next one. 

Greg didn’t have a spacer at his end. Well he kind of did. See, the front of the porch gets blocking in between each rafter. This is a board cut to length to fit in between the rafters but it gets secured in place. This not only gives ridigty to the rafters to prevent them from being able to roll, but it also closes off the gap that’s created between the top of the header and the top of the rafter. Just to keep birds and such out. 

One addition that made this step easier was Justin, who is the videographer, ended up passing the rafter up to Greg which saved him a trip up and down the ladder. With the third hand, we could actually attach two before we had to shift the entire operation down some. 

Once we installed all the rafters we could on the two posts we had installed, we would both hop down then install the next post…..the next header….then repeat with the next set of rafters.

We completed the rest of the porch by working in bay sections like this. And this is probably my favorite part of the project, I love stages that you can really see drastic change and progression. 

To give you an idea on timeline, the deck took us two days to complete, then so far all of this progression was a days work, so things really do move along quickly.

Then before calling this step complete we went to the two ends of the porch and attached an additional rafter to cap it off. These are in line with the house and will act as the subfasica.

Not too shabby huh? But it isn’t done yet, now we capped the front of the rafters with another 2×6. This board is called the Fascia.

We would first pull a tape and figure out what the board needs to be cut to, to land on the center of a rafter. Then face nail it directed into the ends of each rafter. Just a tip: Use a speed square or another straight edge reference to align this board. This will keep your roof in one line and avoid a bump that would be created if you flushed up the rafter by hand. 

The next day we started off by tying all the rafters together with perlins. These are 1x boards that are spaced apart every 2’ and these not only tie the rafters together, like I said, but also gives boards in the center of the roof to screw into on the next step when we start attaching roof panels.

This is such an easy step, it’s literally just placing the 1x in place, making sure it falls on the center of a rafter, then nailing it down….but it takes forever! Because it’s a ton of crab crawling around which is surprising really tiring. I would work from one side of the roof to the other, then from the front of the porch uphill to the back. When I got to the sides I would let the perils run wild then after they were all installed, I used a circular saw to trim them all flush. 

Next, bring in the roofing panels! Greg went with standard metal roofing panels and since he has a tractor he first placed them on the forks to lift them in the air for me to just grab then place into position.

After laying down a sheet, he would inch the tractor forward so that it would be in line with the next needed position so I could pull it directly off and on.

Since this was really just a one person job, I handled the high work while Greg tackled building a set of stairs for the deck. 

After getting a sheet laid down with one corrugation overlapping the previous panel, I would secure it with screws. Going into each one of those perils that I set in the previous step. When you buy your roofing material it should come with screws in the same color. These will probably have a rubber washer under the screw head so that when you seat the screw in the metal, it will seal around the hole you’re creating and not leak. 

I’ll tell you this….it’s a remarkable feeling to sit underneath shade you create with your own hands. I think it tickles something primal in our DNA that steams back to the instinct to create sheather…..ha, I don’t know, or I’m just odd….but it was outstanding to sit in our self created shade and eat lunch that day. 

After taking a break, we got back to work though. As you build a structure like this, it’s fascinating to feel the progression as well as see it. It starts off flimsy then every step adds more and more rigidity to where at this stage trying to move/shake the structure feels 100 times better. Even though it felt strong, Greg’s old porch had these beautiful braces spanning between the posts and the headers so we quickly went to his shop and made a few more. Greg just free handed the design then we used a combination of a bandsaw and miter saw to make the shape happen. 

: ) if you want to stay up to date with what I’m building in real time, be sure to follow me over on Instagram or Facebook. 

Here’s a before shot:

And here’s the after!

That was all we were able to get done in the few days I was visiting but since leaving Greg has put a lot of the finishing details such as painting it, adding soffit, lights, and even some plants.

We celebrating wrapping up this big project by moving a table on the porch and having a family dinner on it and that was really the cherry on top of a great rewarding week. 

If you have a porch on your list than I really hope that this helps you out! Be sure and watch the video above for even more details. Also, check out Greg at the links below. He offers tons of classes on chair making in this wonderful heaven of a shop of his.

Hope you’ve enjoyed this one and I’ll catch you on the next one!

• Find Greg Pennington here.
• Greg’s Class Schedule here.

Other projects with Greg:

• Three Legged Shop Stool Video
• Democratic Chair Video
• Painting Furniture with Real Milk Paint Video

Also! If you missed the update, I now have shirts for sale representing my Hill Country Wood Shed!

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

Wondering how to build a deck? Check out this DIY project where I show you the demo and build of a deck for a great house!

In this video I traveled to Nashville TN to help a good friend of mine rebuild his porch.

If you’ve been watching my channel you’ll probably recognize the name Greg Pennington. He is the master chairmaker that I’ve taken a few classes with and the last time I was there he mentioned wanting to demo his existing porch which is only 10’ deep and rebuild it to be 16’ deep. It’s a huge job and right up my ally so I offered to come back for a week and help out. While it’s being rebuilt, Greg also wanted to change the direction of the deck boards to run perpendicular to the shop vs parallel. The change in direction will drastically help make a smoother rock for the rocking chairs he makes with his students. 

Since Greg has an exiting structure the first thing we needed to do was demo. The goal was to remove everything and start fresh. I hopped up on the roof with a circular saw and a Diablo Demo Demon blade and made a cut about a foot from the header that connects the porch to the shop. If you have any sort of demo work, I highly recommend picking up one of these blades as it’s design to cut through anything. Here I’m chopping through asphalt shingles, nails, plywood, and joists. 

Now the plan was to chop up the porch in sections that could be carried away with the tractor. So next I used the circular saw to go from my back cut line to the front of the porch.

With my blade all the way down, I was able to cut through most of the material but not 100% of the 2×6 joists or the front header of the porch. So I came back with a sazall next, this time using a Diablo Demo Demon Recip blade for this tough job, and finished making the cut.

When I got close, Greg would set the forks of his tractor under the section so that when I cut through the last bit, he was there to catch it and carry it off. 

We learned from the first one that just using the forks was a little difficult because they would want to punch through the roof too easily since the wood was a little soft from water damage. So while I was chopping up the next section, Greg made a jig to span the forks and create a more even footprint when picking up the next section. Then we repeated, just breaking up the porch into sections that the tractor could carry away.

I would make the cut with the circular first to establish the line, then use the sazall to cut the rest of the way through the longer members of the structure. 

With the bulk of the porch gone now we could hop up on scaffolding to remove the tail ends left behind that I was using as a safe walking platform while chopping up the rest of the roof.

Since we are going right back up with a porch, we wanted to remove everything except for the header but we’ll reuse the header for the joists of our new porch. 

Now let’s demo the deck before dark. We tackled this in the same fashion! I first made a long cut along the house, then multiple cuts going out to the end of the deck so it could be broken up in sections and carried off.

After getting the big bulk removed all we had left was to remove the small tails of each joist just like we did on the porch. Again, we left the header in place since we’ll reuse it. 

On to rebuilding! The first thing we need to do is set our beams that the joists will be connected to. These are going to be connected to the header we left into place in the last step with joist hangers and here is a method for easily figuring out how to determine the height of your joist hangers: Greg held up a piece of the floor joist material as well as a scrap from the thickness of the deck boards that he temporarily held up as a dry fit. This will determine the height that you need to set your joist hangers at.

It’s important to get the height correctly here so you have a smooth transition, without a step up or down, into the building once the deck is complete. I recommend screwing in the first side then using a piece of 2x cut off scrap to get the width correctly then screwing down the second side. 

Now we can set the back end of the beam in place and figure out how much build up the front end will need in order to be level. To do this, set the back end in the joist hanger then place a level on the front. While one person reads where level is, another can be reading a tape to see what the height needs to be.

Once that is determine you can use an assortment of material to create this build up. On the taller ones we used the standard off the shelf cement blocks, but on the shorter ones we laid some gravel down and use a small brick paver. Since this is in direct contact with the ground, using something other than wood is best. 

You’ll also notice that we doubled up no the beam material.

I recommend looking up span charts for the distance you are trying to cover and that will tell you what dimension of material is rated for the span. If you do have to double up on material, then use a clamp to tightly squeeze the boards together then go through and nail them to each other. 

This can be tedidious work but if you take your time and make sure your beams are square to the building, and to each other, and also level, then all your other steps will be so much easier. 

Next up is attaching the joists, which run perpendicular to the beams and connect from inside to inside with more joist hangers. The first step in this stage is to lay out where the joists need to go. We went with 16” on center but depending on your length of deck and material choice you might can do 24” on center. We would pull a tape along the beam and first make our marks so that next we could come back and attach the joist hangers at their needed location.

I recommend the same process as before to attach these. First drive in a screw on one side, then use a scrap piece of 2x material to open the hanger to the needed width before driving in the second screw. You don’t want it to be so tight on the scrap that you’ll have to struggle to get the joist in, but you do want it close. 

You can also use a cut off of whatever material you’re using for the joists to determine the height of these hangers. You want the top of the joists to be perfectly flush to the top of the beams. 

After getting done with one bay, we repeated on all the others…..whew, that’s a lot of joist hangers.

Now! If we did everything correctly, we should be able to set up a miter saw and start cutting all the joists to the same length then slip them in one by one into the hangers.

This is where taking the time to square up the beams really pays off. If you’re out of square, then you’re numbers will be all over the place and you’ll have to measure each one individually. I recommend setting up a stop block on your miter and having one person cut then another person attach.

I threw in a Diablo 60 tooth fine finish blade on my miter saw, which has their carbide teeth which increases performance and leaves an incredibly clean cut. Then on my circular saw, I switched out the Demo Demon for the 24 tooth Diablo framing blade, which has Diablo’s tracking point tooth design. This not only provides straight cuts, but also 5x longer blade life. It’s my go-to circular saw blade when framing.

The hangers have hole locations for nails but since we’re using a nail gun, it’s far easier to toe nail in the board so while I set the joists in their pockets, Greg would be attaching each one. 

Our next step could actually have been skipped but it doesn’t take that much time and actually makes a huge difference. Before moving on to decking, we went back through each bay and adding in blocking. Which is just a board that spans in between joist to joist. In fact, I was able to cut all of this blocking from the cut off portion of the joists so definitely keep your larger scraps around until the end of project because you never know when they will come in handy. These are face nailed into the joists themselves roughly at the center of the bay. You can see that I’m staggering them so that each one can be face nailed in instead having to toe nail one side. 

Alrighty, that completes the sub structure of the entire deck, now lets move on to the decking stage.

Oh actually, before moving on the decking, we moved to the front of the deck and attached the drop guthers. These boards will cover up the front end of the deck, giving it a nice clean look. It’s also stiffens up the front of the deck by tying together each one of the beams. These are attached really easily by holding the top flush to the top of the beams and then screwed on. Cut the boards so that the ends fall on the center of each one of the beams. 

Ok, and noooow onto decking. Like I said at the start, Greg wanted the deck boards to run perpendicular to the shop so that his rocking chairs could rock easier. With that, we started on one side and just worked our way to the other.

We are using treated 2×6 material that is 16’ long and these are screwed down into each one of the joists. Screwing the boards down takes a lot of time however, by going with screws, the deck boards will not pop up over time so I think it’s worth it. The system that we worked out is to stage a good amount of boards in front of our workable area so that Greg and I could just pull from the pile and start screwing it down. The end that matters here is the end closest to the porch, its important that this end is butted up tightly to the shop. The other end can just fall wherever it falls off the deck!

This is called letting it run wild. Because after all the deck boards are placed and attached, we’ll pop a chalk line and cut all the ends to be in a perfectly straight line….so don’t even worry about that end of things at the moment. 

Another thing to pay attention to is if the board is bowed. These boards are treated and will shrink once they dry so we didn’t leave any space between them. With that, when a board was bowed out in a section we would do what we needed to do to get it as flush with the previous board as possible.

It’s also worth mentioning that to quickly get through this step we only put in screws on our respected ends. So we would throw down a board, Greg would put in a screw on his end, I would put in one on mine, then one of us would throw one in the middle somewhere, then we would throw down the next board. 

We did it this way so we could eat through this step quickly while we still had day light. Then over the next few days, any time one of us needed to kill 15 mins, we would go put in some filler screws on the remaining joist lines. It’s just a way to keep the project moving. 

After all of the deck boards were laid down, we could determine what overhang Greg wanted on the front end, pop a chalk line, and then use a circular saw to straighten up that wild end.

It was a crammed pack two days and we covered a lot of ground in that time frame. It was certainly rewarding to see how much work we could get done in that amount of time.

It was also rewarding to move out some rocking chairs!

If a deck has been on your to-do list, I really hope this tutorial has helped you out. Definitely check out the video above for more details. And stay tuned for the next video where Greg and I build the porch onto the deck!

Things I Used In This How To Build A Deck Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Diablo Demo Recip Blade
• Diablo Demo Saw Blade
• Diablo Combo Saw Blade
• Diablo Framing Saw Blade

• Find Greg Pennington here.
• Greg’s Class Schedule here.

Other projects with Greg:

• Three Legged Shop Stool Video
• Democratic Chair Video
• Painting Furniture with Real Milk Paint Video

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Thinking about building your own DIY Cornhole Boards? Check out this DIY project where I show you exactly how to build your own bag toss boards!

Summertime is in full swing, which means lots of outdoor activities. So, in this video, I’m going to be showing you how to make a set of Bag Toss Boards.

You can get really creative for a paint scheme. Or you can leave it plain. I dressed mine up like a flag to be festive for the 4th of July.

Check out the video above to see how I did it!

Cornhole Board Free Plans

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If you’d like to build this project yourself, I have a set of free DIY bag toss plans that you can find here!

I hope you have a blast building and playing!

Things I Used In This DIY Cornhole Boards Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Wilker Do’s DIY Miter Saw Stand
• Wilker Do’s DIY Plywood Workbench
• Titebond III
• SuperJaws
• Jigsaw
• Belt Sander
• Clamps
• In Wall Hardware Storage
• Palm Sander
• Brad Nailer

Looking to build your own DIY Folding Adirondack Chair? Why not make a Adirondack Chair that FOLDS to make it more portable and easier to store?

It is officially summer time and I’m needing some outdoor chairs. It’s crazy how expensive Adirondack Chairs are. So in this video, I am going to show you how you can make your own DIY Adirondack Chair with a special feature!

Let’s Build your DIY Folding Adirondack Chair

What I really love about this design is that it has a folding feature to make it low profile when stowing it away during the winter time.

Folding Adirondack Chair Templates

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I’ve created a set of folding DIY adirondack chair plans to make building this one (or multiples) quick and easy!

Materials I used to build a Folding Adirondack Chair:

• Wood
• Drill
• Screws
• Clamps
• Nut and bolts
• Finish
• Paint
• Stain
• DIY Folding Adirondack Chair templates

Step 1: Use Folding Adirondack Chair Templates to create the right sized pieces

The first step to making a Folding Adirondack Chair is to grab our templates needed in order to build out the bottom of the chair. Place the templates over your 1x lumber and secure with standard scotch tape. The goal is to map out what is needed now so that all we have to do is assemble it later.

Step 2: Cut out your pieces for your DIY Folding Adirondack Chair

Head over to your Miter Saw to cut the longer boards into smaller sections. This helps to make cutting out the parts at the Band Saw more manageable. Here you can either do a rough cut at the Band Saw then use a Router with a flush trim bit to get the part perfect or you can take your time at the Band Saw to get the cut as close to the template trace lines as possible.

Step 3: Soften the edges

Use a Router Table to cut a quarter inch round over on all the exposed edges. If you do not have a Router Table, then a hand held router with a round over bit will work just as well! Remember to go slow and safe, let the tool do the work. Tip: If you are building with pine or another softwood you do not need your router speed turned all the way up – half speed will work just fine.

Step 4: Assemble the DIY Folding Adirondack Chair seat

First, lay out the two main legs and attach the front seat slat. It’s helpful to have something to push up against so that once the slat is positioned in place you can drive it in with a screw while avoiding any shifting of the Adirondack chair legs. I recommend moving to attach the last slat on the seat after this to square up the structure.

Step 5: Measure the angle of the legs of the DIY Folding Adirondack Chair

Use a square to make sure that your legs are standing at a 90 degree angle in reference to a flat work bench or surface. Additionally, check to make sure the distance in between the back is the same as the distance in between the front of the legs.

Step 6: Attach the DIY Folding Adirondack Chair slats

Now, attach the remaining slats in between your front and back slats. You can use a spacer, but you can also eyeball the distance as well.

Step 7: Attach the DIY Folding Adirondack Chair legs

The seat is done! Next we will prop it up by attaching the Folding Adirondack Chair’s front legs. On the templates, I have marked where all the hardware needs to be placed. I would use an ald to transfer the hole location before using a quarter inch drill bit to push the holes through. This helps when it comes to lining up the bolt with the holes in the main legs. Repeat the process on the other side.

Step 8: Attach the DIY Folding Adirondack Chair front support

Use two clamps to attach the Adirondack Chairs front support right under the seat slats. This piece also serves as a grabbing point to allow you to easily carry the Folding Adirondack Chair when it is in it’s folded position.

Step 9: Building the DIY Folding Adirondack Chair back assembly.

Pull the templates needed to trace out all the back slats. Head over to your Band Saw to cut them out and round out the exposed edges. The templates have holes pre-marked where the two back arches need to be placed on the back slats. I found it easiest to lay the back arches down on a workbench and then lay the slats on top of them.

Tip: DIY Folding Adirondack Chair Centering

To make sure the slats are centered first find center on the arches and work your way out. I used a counter sink before driving each slat in with a screw to the top and bottom arches. Since this is a folding Adirondack chair the back won’t be attached to the seat right now. However, it will need to be set into place. Use some clamps to hold it into place while you move on to the next step: the arms!

Step 10: Create the DIY Folding Adirondack Chair arm assembly.

This step consists of the Folding Adirondack Chair arm as well as a small vertical support. Set it into place on the chair. I recommend using a clamp to hold the front vertical support into place and up against the front leg to keep it from moving while you drill it into place. The hole locations are marked on the templates to make it easy to place. Once the hole is punched through, use a nut and bolt to secure the arm to the chair.

Material Tip:

I recommend using a nylon locking nut for the hardware on this build. There is a nylon ring inside the nut that won’t allow it to slip back off over time.

Step 11: Attach the back of the DIY Folding Adirondack Chair arm to the upper arch on the back assembly

Grab a level to get the arm perfectly flat. I also pre-drilled a hole and drilled in a screw. This part is fairly simple, but make sure the surface your Folding Adirondack Chair is on is level as well, otherwise you can accidentally end up with an off-level product.

Step 12: Make it a foldable Adirondack Chair

To make this a Folding Adirondack Chair, place a small block that attaches to the back lower arch of the back assembly near the main leg. This is a small part! Make sure to pre-drill it so that it doesn’t spilt. Make sure the part is fully seated, but don’t over tighten. These blocks do need to pivot in order to give you the folding action.

Conclusion

You’re done! You can absolutely leave the wood raw, but you can also stain or paint the Folding Adirondack Chair to personalize them. The DIY Folding Adirondack Chair is an affordable and easy project. You can find all the materials you need at your local hardware store, and you can usually get them at a discounted price. Plus, you won’t have to pay for labor or shipping fees, so you can get a great deal on your new chair.

Things I Used in This DIY Folding Adirondack Chair Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Armor Tool Mobile Workbench
• Wilker Do’s Mobile Workbench Upgrade Plans
• Bessey Clamps
• Triton SuperJaws

Folding Adirondack Chair Templates

$9.99 – $19.99

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Easiest way to get started on your DIY Adirondack Chair is to grab my plans and watch the video above!

Tips For Painting or Staining Your DIY Adirondack Chair

When it comes to painting or staining your Adirondack chair, there are a few things to keep in mind.

1. First, make sure to use oil-based paint or stain for the best results. Water-based products may not provide adequate protection from the elements.
2. Second, make sure to apply multiple coats for the best coverage. Applying multiple thin coats is better than one thick coat.
3. Third, make sure to let the chair dry completely before using it. This will ensure that the paint or stain has had enough time to cure and is fully protected from the elements.

Extra Design Ideas For DIY Adirondack Chairs

Making your own Adirondack chair is a great way to add a touch of style and personality to your outdoor space. Here are a few extra design ideas to get you started:

• For a rustic look, try using reclaimed wood for the frame and slats.
• For a modern look, try using painted wood or metal for the frame and slats.
• For a classic look, try using natural wood for the frame and slats.
• For a coastal look, try using white-washed wood or blue-painted wood for the frame and slats.
• For an eclectic look, try using a mix of different materials for the frame and slats.

With a bit of creativity, you can make an Adirondack chair that’s truly unique and one-of-a-kind.

Folding Adirondack Chair Templates

$9.99 – $19.99

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You should buy the templates and definitely check out the video for this DIY Adirondack Chair project for all of the details and the tutorial.

Conclusion and Finished Product!

I also think a set of these chairs would make a great present for anyone on pretty much any occasion.

If you are interested in outdoor furniture, I also have templates for a porch swing and as well as templates for a rocking chair.

I hope you have a blast making your own outdoor furniture! I’ll see you on my next project.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Thinking about putting in your own automatic DIY Easy Drip System Garden Irrigation? Check out this project where I installed an automatic irrigation system!

I am absolutely loving having a garden. I usually spend the last part of my day, down in the garden watering everything.

However, the problem with this method is that it depends on my being in town to water every day. Also, it dispenses a large amount of water over a short duration of time. Which means that it typically pools at the base of the plant and then runs off away from it.

So instead, I have now installed a drip irrigation system that dispenses a large quantity of water but over a long duration of time. Mine runs for one hour.

This way of watering allows water to be absorbed down deep into the soil, which motivates the plant to establish deeper roots to reach the water. It’s also a far more efficient way to use water.

Let me give you an overview of my system, and then I’ll show you how I installed it.

Things I Used In This Easy Drip System Garden Irrigation Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Drip Irrigation Kit
• Hose Splitter
• Irrigation Filter
• Water Regulator
• Teflon Tape
• Irrigation Tubing Hole Punch

My watering source is my Rain Water Collection Tank. Then there is a pump that pumps the water back uphill to my spigot.

From here I filter and reduce the pressure of the water and then direct it to the beds in the solid tubing. This runs along the back of every bed.

From there, a piece of solid tubing runs down the middle where a few links of drip hose are plugged into it.

This hose is smaller in diameter and has spaced out perforations that will allow water to drip out of it when the system is turned on.

You can find a kit with these hoses and fittings HERE. Now let’s get into how to put it together.

Starting with the spigot, let me give you a breakdown. I have a splitter because I still want the ability to be able to walk up to the spigot and be able to turn it on.

Then there is the filter to filter out sediment. There is also a timing device to tell the water when to kick on. A regulator, which reduces the pressure of the water down to 25 PSI. And then also a splitter, which directs the water left and right.

Once you decide how you want your system to look, take it all apart and apply a few layers of teflon tape to each of the threads to help prevent leaks.

Next I’m going to run the main water supply line through the back of each bed. I drilled a hole through the back of each planter, which will feed the main supply lines to each bed.

At the center of each bed, there will be a T fitting, which will direct water down the center of the bed to drip fillings to dispense the water.

This is a valve that will allow me to turn the water off to a particular bed if I dont have anything planted at that time to water.

The drip hose has holes punctured through it to allow water to escape out of it. On one end, we’ll put a valve, which will go into the main water supply line. The other end will receive an end cap.

So let’s punch some holes in the main water line to connect the two components. This little guy punches holes in the side for the drip system.

You can place the drip lines at the spacing you like. I made all of mine the same and placed them with 4 per bed.

Now you can take the drip irrigations lines and place them into the holes that we made in the main irrigation line.

The drip hose can now be staked down into place. There are plastic holders you can buy – and I did actually. But after I ran out, I grabbed bailing wire and made my own by rounding over the top and sticking it into the ground.

I positioned the drip hoses so that the outlets were closest to my plants. Also, don’t push them all the way to the ground. Keep them standing up just a bit so the holes are less likely to get dirty and clogged.

Once the entire system is in place, the last thing is to turn it on and check for leaks. Water should only come out of the perforations of the drip hose.

Your climate and what you are growing should determine how long you should let you system run. I have mine set to run for one hour at 4 am every day. Now that it is summer, I might have to run it a second time.

It’s so cool how well this system works. My garden is just looking fabulous. So if this is on your to-do list, it’s actually a very quick and easy process.

Walk In Garden Plans

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If you’d like to see how I built these gardens, check out these links:

• Walk In Garden Project
• Walk In Garden Plans

• DIY Raised Garden Beds Project
• Free Raised Garden Bed Plans

Raised Garden Bed Free Plans

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Thanks for watching! I’ll see you on my next project.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

(Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting me in this way.)

Want to know my favorite chainsaw mill? Check out this project walk through why this chainsaw mill is my absolute favorite!

In this video I’m going to be going over the very impressive Logosol chainsaw mill.

I love milling. I fell in love with it after building my bandsaw mill, but to have a piece of equipment that’s this put together, well thought out, and accurate, makes me giddy. Let me take you through it’s features, my experience on using it, and why I wanted a chainsaw mill when I already have a giant bandsaw mill. 

Actually, let me start there. If you haven’t been following my channel, I built a giant bandsaw mill that has a large cutting capacity. It is a tank and wonderful to have such a big piece of equipment in my arsenal however, it is definitely not portable.

I have to always bring the logs to it and I’ve sometimes found that to be a challenge so one of the biggest advantages to a chainsaw mill is that it can travel to the log(s). 

I’ve used a few chainsaw mills on the market. I made a video on using the Grandburg last year and that is worlds and above better than using a home made rig such as a ladder.

But it’s only a portable flat referencing surface whereas this Logosol is an all in one milling machine. 

It’s durable and stable, meaning accurate. It’s holds the log off the ground for easy milling, it has a built in lift system, it doesn’t rust, it’s dirt repellent so there is zero maintenance, and on top of all of that….it’s portable. Do you see why I’m giddy? 

Logsol is a Swedish company and I attended an annual conference of theirs last year where I first got to see the equipment and put my hands on it. And just a side note, if you’re impressed with this unit, just wait until you see their other mills like the bandsaw mill or their wide slabber….they are all this well thought out and functional. 

One huge advantage to a chain sawmill over a band sawmill is it’s portable. This F2 Logosol can be dissembled so that the entire unit can fit into the back of a truck or even in the back of an SUV. This way, when I get a call about logs but they are in a location where getting a truck and trailer isn’t an option, I can park in front and carry the mill to the spot with the logs.

Or more commonly, if I get a call about several good logs but hours away…..instead of having to make multiple trips to get the logs back home on a trailer, I can load this up, spend the day slabbing on site then just stack the trailer full of cut slabs to bring home. 

The entire unit is made with aluminum which not drastically cuts down on the weight but it also means you can leave it outside indefinitely without it rusting.

So no need to pack it up or cover it up after a day of milling. Dirt doesn’t stick to it either, so you can easily wipe it off, grab your chainsaw and head in for the day. I’ve currently had my mill sitting out for months now and it looks just as beautiful as the day I first got it. 

Now lets talk about features. Oooooh this mill is slick. Being around tools and equipment for a minute now, I can certainly appreciate a well thought out tool that not only does what it’s suppose to do accurately, but is also easy to use, and bonus points if you can make it look this sharp and beautiful at the same time.

This mill comes in different length options but I opted for the shortest length which is 4 meters (or 13 feet). The longest is 6 meters or just under 20’. But it’s worth noting and again acknowledging Logosol for their thought process, that the F2 is built with a smart module system that allows for different extensions so there are multiple options for extending the wings up to 2 additional meters.

So you could keep it at it’s full length, or you could keep it at it’s most compact size then quickly add on an extension should you catch a big tree. 

For holding down material, the mill comes with a really savvy cam locking system on a sliding track system so that you have plenty of flexibility, no matter where the log end lands, to slide the clamp up against it, tighten it on the track, then lever over the cam lock to hold it securely in place. 

One of my favorite features is adjusting for the depth of cut. Both of the legs, or all if you have the third on, have a ruler attached so that it is extremely simple to not only keep the log level from end to end, resulting in a straight cut, but also to set up for whatever thickness of slab you want.

You adjust the height by turning the handles on each leg which is lifted up by way of a ratcheting system. Every time you hear a click, the log has been lifted 1/4”. So after making a cut, if I want a 2” slab, I turn the handle 8 clicks, then listen for 8 clicks on the other then start on the next cut. I personally love the sound association, it is quick, easy, and accurate, but if you lose track of clicks then of course looking at the ruler to set the depth is another way of easily doing it. 

For the chainsaw: there is a light weight saw carriage that comes with the mill that very quickly attaches to your chainsaw and allows it to slides effortlessly along the track in a very smooth and straight fashion.

There is also an attachment that can be added which will reach out and hold onto the end of the bar to give it more stability to make a straight cut.

Of course when you’re milling, it’s important to have the bar of the chainsaw cutting through the wood straight. If it tilts then you’ll end up with a tapered cut on your slab, which is not only a waste but also causes more work when you go to use the slab. So on your set up, it’s important to have the wings flat and straight, since that is the reference for the carriage, but it’s also important to have the bar stabilized. Then if those two things are good, you’ll just need to focus on the feel/sound of the cut and adjust your pace to either speed up or slow down. 

Since I mentioned set up, lets cover that real quick. The mill comes in a few different boxes with all of the components clearly labeled and laid out.

It might look like a lot when first opening up everything and getting started, but the assembly instructions are by far some of the best I’ve worked with so it came together very easy.

I was continuously impressed with the smart solutions for joining things together, adding stability but keeping it lightweight, and how all the parts fit together like a glove. 

It is a great sign that as I was assembling, I got a buzzed excitement about how well it’s going to work, purely based off the level of quality and obvious attention to detail, that came through by handling these parts. 

To use the mill, you place the log on the bed, spanning the two legs, clamp it down with the cam locks, then make your face cut which gives you a top flat plane.

I would personally lift the chainsaw carriage up on the wings and get it set into the tracks, then start the engine in place. For moving the carriage you can either move it manually by pushing it or the mill comes with a winch system that can be installed which goes from the carriage to the end of the wing and back so that you can crank on the handle to feed it through the cut.

After making it to the end of the cut, you can remove the log then slide the saw back to the start position before using the lift system to raise the log up to the slabs thickness. 

Of course the speed of cut will be vary depending on the saw you have, the diameter, length, and hardness of wood you’re cutting but here I was cutting Texas Mesquite which is one of the hardest woods on the Janka Hardness scale and it was taking me just at a minute to make a cut. So not very much time at all to go through this entire log. 

Now I think it’s incredible that the mill can handle such a long log, but if you’re like me and also have some short stock, a simple work around is to make a quick and cheap jig out of 2x4s or 2x6s to lay in between the two legs. This will cradle the log so it won’t roll away but also allow it to span between the mill’s legs. This jig is simple enough to set into place but then I just toss it to the side until it’s needed again. 

Now for comparisons. I mentioned the Grandburg system earlier. That system is a little bit less expensive and will provide you a portable flat reference to cut slabs from. However, it doesn’t come with a way of holding the log stable, or up off the ground.

Once you get into milling, you’ll quickly realize how important log holding can be. It is light weight and definitely portable but now that I’ve been using this all in one Logosol F2 for the past few months, I can’t imagine going back to anything else. And that’s why if you’re serious about milling as a side gig or even a full time gig, then I definitely recommend Logosol. It’s at a convinent height. It’s light weight, portable, and I love love love that I can leave it set up out in the woods without it rusting or causing problems.

All I have to do is tote the saw in after I’m done, then carry it back out when I’m ready to go again. 

If you’ve been following along with my story then you’ll know that I’ll be selling slabs at my new commercial building called The Wood Shed, so if you’re interested, then yes these slabs will be for sale. And yes, I am interested if you’re in the area and have logs to slab up.

But also, Logosol is a Swedish company that so far has a distributor on the East coast and the West coast but nothing in Central. However, I have been so impressed by this piece of equipment as well as the company themselves that I will be stocking inventory of the F2 Chainsaw mill at The Wood Shed as well. So if you would like to see the mill in person prior to purchasing one, please feel free to drop in. I’ll be happy to walk you through the unit in person. 

 I am so proud to be partnering with the best milling brand on the market:

• Find Logosol’s US Store here
• Find Logosol on the East coast here
• Find Logosol on the West coast here

I will also have inventory at The Wood Shed that can be purchased once Covid-19 has passed and I can open my doors.

Find out more about The Wood Shed Videos here.

If you are considering getting into milling or are in milling and was hoping to learn about the F2, then I hope this video was helpful. I’ll see you on whatever I’m working on next.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

Thinking about building your own DIY Raised Garden Beds? Check out this DIY project where I walk you through exactly how I built mine for my garden!

Earlier this year, I built this Walk In Garden With Raised Beds Video so that I could comfortably garden without hurting my back or knees. I left the center bare with the intention of building a different version of raised garden beds. This is so I can still be above the rock, which my land is on. But also be low enough to the ground so I can plant taller items like corn or raspberries.

In this video, I’m going to be showing you exactly how I built these center beds. This project is very easy so if a garden is on your list of projects, I recommend trying to tackle it.

If you are interested in plans for either one, I have them here:

• Walk in Garden DIY Plans
• Free Raised Garden Beds DIY Plans

Things I Used In This DIY Raised Garden Beds Project:

• ISOtunes Ear Protection
• Wilker Do’s Miter Saw Stand Plans
• Bessey Clamps
• Circular Saw
• Wilker Do’s Sawhorse DIY Plans

I started off going to get all of my material. And here’s a tip: whenever I am loading stuff, I’ve been utilizing the heck out of the Simple Strap. When I’m haling long lumber, I use the red strap. Not only so I can bundle it together and secure it, but so it can double as a red flag.

There is no knots, hooks or ratchets. You tuck it in to itself and cut it to the length you need. It’s reusable and even works when it is dusty, dirty or even wet!

I started this project processing my material and cutting all of the boards that I could up front. I pushed my mobile miter saw stand outside, set up a stop block with clamps and started cutting my boards to length.

For the much longer pieces, I moved out to the job site and set up on sawhorses to use a circular saw instead of my miter saw. These are going to be the side walls that make up the planter. A tip for you when using a circular saw to get a straight line is to use a speed square as a guide.

Also, if you are able to get two boards out of one board, go ahead and pull your measurements from opposite ends of the board. That way when you line up the cut, you can make both cuts at the same time.

Now we just need to put the two main components together to start assembling the raised bed.

I’d start by placing two of the long 5/4 boards next to each other and then use one of the short boards to screw them together. These are placed relatively close together because it is crazy how much pressure the dirt (when placed inside) will press the boards out.

To make this go a little faster, I recommend cutting a spacer board to length. That way you can move along quickly without measuring.

After getting all four of the short sides done, I repeated the process and built the long sides. I used a longer spacer on these sides.

After getting all of the sides in place, I could then clamp them together to attach them to each other. I made sure the tops were lined up. I’m going to come back with a top cap and I want the tops to be nice and flush.

I used gravel to fill in the sides (because I had it) but you could very well use dirt.

Now that the main body is built, it needs to be capped off with a top cap. This will not only give it a finished look but it will also stabilize the wall from leaning out.

You could ver well set these in place and just cut them at 90 degrees. However, I went ahead and mitered them so that both pieces could be secured to the corner piece right underneath it.

Ok and the last piece. This might not be necessary, but I had it so I thought I’d throw it in. This is a cross member that will stretch across the center of the bed. I was worried about the top of the walls wanting to bow out from pressure from all of the soil.

I decided to go ahead and line the inside with plastic to keep water from sitting against the wood and deflect wood rot.

Be sure and watch the video above to see more detail on how I built these beds! I hope this tutorial has helped you out. I’m really enjoying gardening!

Be watching for another video I’m going to release soon that will cover installing the drip hose irrigation system that I’m installing.

I’ll see you guys on my next project!

Walk In Garden Plans

$19.99

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Don’t forget I have plans:

• Wilker Do’s Walk in Garden DIY Plans
• Free Raised Garden Beds DIY Plans

Raised Garden Bed Free Plans

$0.00

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If you haven’t already, don’t forget to sign up at the top of this page for my newsletter so you don’t miss new projects!

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